Meagan Condon

Dizzing Three Ways

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I am an incredibly lazy spinner. If I can do it without digging the specialized tool out of storage for it, I will! Sometimes that makes more work for myself, though I don’t like to admit it. For the longest time, I would create roving or top without a diz, just drafting it out with my hands… because it was too much work to find the diz. However, I am a diz convert, especially after seeing how much nicer the preparations behave. 

Photo by Jacqueline Harp in Winter 2022, Neck and Shoulders issue.

What’s a Diz? 

A diz is a simple, useful tool for handspinners. Often made from wood, bone, plastic, or ceramic, it is a small disk, sometimes concave and sometimes flat, with at least one small hole through which fiber can be pulled. It is designed to create a consistent roving. 

Here are three ways you can use a diz with different fiber preparations: 

1. Making True Top from Wool Combs  

Dizzing wool directly from combs is ideal for worsted spinning. Once you have combed the fiber and the fiber is aligned on one of the combs, clamp the comb to a table so that you have both hands free to work the fiber. Bring the fibers on the comb to a point and feed the fibers through the diz. Twisting the tips of the fiber can help it feed through the small hole. Start to draft the fibers from the tip. As your top thins, slide the diz downward toward the comb until it has a firm grip on the next set of fibers. Then draft the fibers some more. Do this until there is minimal waste fiber left on the comb. You can coil your roving in a neat little nest for safekeeping until you are ready to spin. 

2. Creating Roving from Drum-Carded Batts  

Batts from a drum carder can be turned into manageable roving using a diz as well, and it can be done directly from the drum carder. Once all the fiber has been applied to the drum carder and blended, typically we would remove it to create a batt. Instead, find the seam of the drum. From one edge of the seam, slide the doffer about 1 inch along the seam and lift to break the continuous loop. Gather the tips of the fiber from one side and put them through the diz as described above. As you draw off the roving, you’ll slowly move the diz down and around the drum in a spiral until you have removed all of the fiber. 

3. Refining Woolen Prep from Rolags  

Though usually spun directly, rolags can be dizzed to get a more semi-worsted preparation. This technique can also be used to loosen fauxlags, which are very tight rolags made on blending boards. Gently pull the fibers from the tip of the rolag through the diz. As you draw the rolag through the diz, it will straighten and align the fibers somewhat. 

Final Tips: 

  • Choose the right hole size based on fiber and yarn weight.  A small hole will make a small yarn. 
  • Pull slowly to avoid breakage or bunching. 
  • Start with clean, well-prepared fiber for best results. 
Guest Blogger

Third Thursdays Guild Tip

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Time to ramp up for tonight’s PLY Spinners Guild Third Thursday foundational spin-in! We’d like to take a moment to feature some tips from one of our wonderful PLY Guild spin-in leaders, Donita Westman. 

 
The old saying is that “practice makes perfect”; over twenty years ago, my music education mentor challenged me to consider if that was true or if “practice makes permanent” was more accurate. (Spoiler: she was right. She’s always right!) Learning to spin requires practice and the way you spin is a result of that practice. Whether you’re new to the craft or a seasoned spinner looking to try a new technique, what and how you practice will determine the kind of spinner you become. Since we talk about the importance of practicing but often skip over how to practice, I wanted to share a few tips on how to approach practice that will help you become better practicing anything.  

Set the mood 

Practicing a new skill is challenging. If we come into a practice session stressed and anxious, we will be less successful and, over time, associate spinning with stress and anxiety. While we can’t solve the world’s problems before we sit down to spin, taking a few minutes to clear our minds and let those emotions flow through us and go on their way before we start our practice session will make it more enjoyable and successful. Make a mug of your favorite warm beverage, turn on some relaxing music, take as many deep breaths as you need, do some gentle stretches, or do all of the above! Engaging your senses allows you to focus on your spinning. Actively thinking about how you are spinning is necessary to learning that new technique! 

Set a goal for your practice session 

Focus on one aspect of your spinning for this time. Choose a goal that you know is achievable in the time you have and make your goal observable. Ask yourself “How will I know if what I’m doing is working or not?” For example, if I want to work on more consistent drafting distance for a yarn with consistent diameter, I can find reference points for how far my hands are moving, look at how opaque or transparent the fiber in my drafting triangle is, and look at a ply-back sample every so often to see if my yarn has fewer thick and thin spots.  

If I’m not seeing progress toward my goal, I can consult a spinning resource (like PLY, a spinning book, a spinning teacher, or an experienced spinner who creates yarn like what I want to create) to find a strategy that moves me toward this goal, not reinforcing habits that aren’t working. If I find my yarn is becoming more consistent, great! I can continue using those strategies to make this practice permanent.  

Set a timer 

Any time you are building a new skill, you want to set a time limit for your practice session. I recommend 15-minute sessions, with an optional second 15-minute session after a short break. These breaks are good for your body, as you are using your muscles in ways they might not be used to moving or holding them tensely as you focus on your goal. Taking a break to get up, have a sip of water or tea, or look out the window for a minute gives your body a chance to let you know if you have resources to continue or if you’re feeling fatigued and need rest. These breaks are also good for your brain, so you can process what’s working for you and check in with your emotions to see if you’re feeling frustrated. If at the end of 30 minutes, you’re feeling good – that’s the time to step away! Putting your spinning down while you’re feeling positive will bring you back time and again, while quitting when you’re frustrated will discourage you from future practice because you associate spinning with frustration. If you are drawn back to your spinning later in the day, try another 15-minute session, but always remember to get out while the getting’s good! 

Learning to practice takes less time than you think. Once you learn to practice, the skills will come more quickly and easily. The more you learn new things, the more you’ll want to learn more new things. Think of all the possibilities that will open up for your spinning once you master how to practice! 

Meagan Condon

Third Thursdays Guild Tip

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Time to ramp up for tonight’s PLY Spinners Guild Third Thursday foundational spin-in!   

Here’s a tip to tide you over until the spin-in starts!  This is something I’ve observed time and again during my years of teaching spinners. 

When we first begin spinning with a short forward draw, many of us struggle to get a thin, even yarn. Much like a toddler who needs to master the chunky crayons before they can move on to the pencils, new spinners will spin lumpy, bumpy, chunky yarn until they master the fine motor control needed to get those lovely, even singles.  Then comes the second part of this problem. 

Once spinners master the thin, even single… it becomes really difficult for them to spin a thick yarn again.  It is a skill they have to learn all over again and is often a shock when they realize they’ve lost the ability.   

To work toward getting that thicker yarn again, pay attention to what each of your hands is doing as your spin.  One hand manages the fiber supply (the fiber hand), while the other hand forms a pinch point and controls the twist (the working hand).   

When you spin a fine single, you might notice that your pinch point stays near the very tips of the fibers and draws only a few fibers at a time into the twisted yarn.  While not always the case, you might also notice that your fiber hand holds the fiber supply with a somewhat firm pressure. 

To get a thicker yarn, move your pinch point deeper into the drafting triangle so that you are drawing up more fibers into the twist zone.  To complement this new motion, your fiber hand should have a very loose grip on your fiber.  If you hold your supply tightly, fewer fibers can be drawn into the twist zone.      

Test this out at the spin-in, tonight!  Make sure that you have joined the guild to get the Zoom link! 

Meagan Condon

Trash in; trash out

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The art of saving your scraps for another project

words by Meagan Condon

Something many experienced fiber teachers, myself included, try to relate to new spinners is… if something in your fiber supply isn’t working… if you have neps in your worsted preparation… if you have a lock that doesn’t want to spin right… it is okay to toss it! No one ever listens the first time. I remember when I first started spinning, I didn’t want to waste a single tuft of fiber. Fiber is an expensive and precious commodity! I couldn’t bear the idea of tossing anything, even if it was trash fiber. It could have more straw than fiber and I’d still sit down and pick out “the good parts.” That boat has long since sailed for me, and I’d like to help you christen your own boat and explore ways of handling fiber scraps that will improve your spinning projects and clear out your studio.

Rule #1: Trash in; trash out
Let’s say you want to create a smooth worsted yarn. You select a nice braid of BFL/silk which you probably paid a nice price for. As you begin to spin, you get to a place in the fiber preparation that is compacted and the fiber preparation is badly disturbed. What do you do? Still spin right past it? What if I told you it had a few neps? Better yet, what if it also had some vegetable matter? All of these problems interrupt your worsted yarn, create a weaker yarn structure, and take away from the value of your yarn. If you paid that much for your fancy fiber, you want to make the best yarn you can. Rather than incorporating those “trash” portions into your yarn, toss it!

Toss it doesn’t mean trash it necessarily…
Just because a bit of fiber isn’t right for a particular project doesn’t mean it can’t be used in some other fashion. In my studio, I keep a bag of fiber scraps. Sometimes these are tufts I cleaned from my drum carder or blending board. Sometimes it’s a not-so-nice portion of a top I’ve spun. Sometimes it’s a section of fluff I experimented with.

What doesn’t go in the bag? Dust and fiber from the floor and beneath the carder, portions of a fleece too gross for me to spin, fiber less than a 1-inch staple, and anything too tangled to work with.

Make yarn
After I’ve filled or sometimes overfilled the bag, I dump the fiber onto the floor, give it a rough sort, and then card it into a scrappy batt or “trash” rolags. The tricky part about these scrappy projects is they can contain any type of fiber, any staple length, any diameter. Medium wools get mixed with fine wools. Longwools get mixed with angora. You name it, it will be all together in this one project. On top of that, you’re using the less-desirable bits instead of the prime fiber. That means your yarn will pill. It will be a weaker yarn. It may even be ugly, itchy, or lumpy. Be aware of that going into the project. I usually don’t get too invested in my scrappy yarns and I don’t expect the finished projects to last a lifetime. I usually spin it as a woolen yarn to deemphasize the inconsistencies of the preparation and use in a project that won’t get much wear & tear and that won’t have tears shed when it does wear out. 

Felt it
Does the idea of making crappy yarn kill your soul? You can always felt that fiber instead.

  • Wrap your scrappy fiber around a bar of soap and turn it into felted soap.
  • Paint a felt tapestry with your different colored scraps.
  • Needle-felt some bobbles to include in your next art yarn.

Experiment
Use your scrappy fiber as a chance to experiment. Try a new preparation or spinning technique. Always wanted to try super coils? Now is your chance! Coreless core spinning? Bring it on! Carding a gradient out of anything? Try it. Just remember, since you are not dealing with prime fiber, if you run into trouble as you experiment, some of your frustration may come from the fiber and not your technique. Take it with a grain of salt and ask yourself along the way – is this something I’m doing or is this a result of my fiber?

What about all the fiber too icky to spin?
If it is too icky to spin, it becomes packing material for shipping things, stuffing for pillows, and (worst-case) compost. Remember, there will be more wool, better wool, stronger wool. As your stash grows, you’ll have more fiber than you can spin, so don’t waste your time fussing with the trash bits.

You have permission to scrap the scrappy bits.

Let me say that again.

You have permission to scrap the scrappy bits.

While you spin, when you get to that not-so-nice bit of fiber, tear it out of your fiber supply and fling it to the floor. Not only does it feel great, but you can pick it up later for your scrap bag. Just because it isn’t going to be in your current project doesn’t mean you can’t use it in other applications.  

Meagan Condon

The Secret to Silk Is in Your Hands

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Literally … your hands are the secret to spinning silk on its own.

Hand care is important for all spinners, but special attention needs to be paid when dealing with silk. It will catch on everything. Silk will catch on other fibers. It will catch on clothes. It will catch on every hangnail and every dry patch of skin on your hands. If you think I am joking, try petting a length of silk top or mawata. Individual strands of silk will stick to the most unexpected places on your hand, and I promise, your hands are never quite as silky smooth as you might think.

Before spinning silk, I always treat my hands to a oil and salt scrub. Salt is naturally abrasive, which helps remove dead skin cells and increase circulation. Olive oil, my favorite oil to use, is made mostly of essential fatty acids which can also be found in our skin. A component of our skin is linoleic acid, which allows our skin to easily absorb the fatty acids. As a result, the oil forms a protective barrier that essentially smooths out the surface of our skin.

Spinner’s Handscrub

  • 1 tsp table salt
  • 1 tsp olive oil

Scrub your hands for 30 seconds to a minute with this scrub, paying special attention around your nail beds and the webbing between your fingers. This scrub will also effectively find every papercut you have. If that terrifies you, sub out the salt for sugar for a gentler scrub. I also use this as an opportunity to massage my hand muscles and warm them up for the spinning task ahead.

Smoothing your hands isn’t the only secret to silk success. How you hold it can also be the difference between a fun spin and misery. Silk feels … well, silky smooth, as if it will slip right through your fingers. As a result, many spinners will try to death-grip silk. The problem here is that silk is one of the strongest protein fibers. I promise that in a fight between your hands and silk, the silk will win. Blisters and silk burns are a terrible participation trophy to get.

Depending on how it was processed, it can also have one of the longest staple lengths. If your hands are too close together, it can be nearly impossible to draft. If you find yourself struggling, try moving your hands farther apart and relaxing your grip.

What tips do you have for spinning silk?