What is luster?

Oh, no! Meagan is at it again! Can we tackle an easier topic, like the cure for cancer or world peace, please? While the word luster brings to mind pearls and diamonds, it can be difficult to nail down exactly what luster means in regard to fiber. This is complicated by the fact that luster is most commonly used to describe mineralogy. Most of us can gather that it has something to do with shininess and light and that some fibers are shiny and some are not. This is a good place to start our exploration!  

Luster is…     how light reflects off a surface
Words we use to describe luster…     shine, brilliance, glow, radiance, luminosity

While that sounds like a simple explanation, this is where it gets complicated. Light may reflect off the surface layer or may pass through the top layer and reflect off the layers beneath, presenting a different reflective quality.

Commercial production of rayon and wool use a full list of official descriptors applied to luster:

1. Clear
2. Bright
3. Semi-Dull
4. Semi-Matte
5. Dull
6. Matte
7. Extra Dull
8. Super Dull

Luster in fiber is often expressed as a range from shiny to dull, with the most shiny and most dull fibers easily identified near the ends of the spectrum and all other fibers somewhere in the middle. Lincoln and Teeswater might be at one end while Southdown is at the other.  However this doesn’t take into effect how the light is reflected. How would silk compare to Teeswater? Not all shiny is equal. For today, let’s stick to wool.

Luster in wool

The microscopic structure of wool is one of the primary factors in determining the luster of the fiber. For example, high-luster wools like Coopworth, Teeswater, and Wensleydale are fundamentally different from low-luster wools like Merino, Cormo, or Southdown.  Beside crimp structure, the main difference between these wools is the size of the scales that make up the surface of the fiber. High-luster wools have larger scales which cover more surface area. When light hits these larger scales, more light is reflected in one direction, creating more shine. Low-luster wools have smaller scales. This causes the light to diffuse in different directions, so less light will be directed toward the eye.

I mentioned crimp. Crimp can also impact how lustrous a fiber appears. A higher crimp wool redirects light in many more directions than a low crimp wool, resulting in a more matte appearance.

What suppresses luster? How it is spun!

It is important to understand how luster changes when spun. In the most basic sense, worsted spinning makes use of a short forward draw and a combed fiber preparation to create a smooth, dense yarn. Woolen spinning makes use of a long draw and a carded fiber preparation, usually rolags, to create a light, fuzzy, warm yarn.

A worsted yarn will always be more lustrous than a woolen yarn of the same type of fiber. In a worsted yarn, we smooth down the fibers, helping them to align more parallel to each other. When the fibers are aligned, light tends to reflect in the same direction, making the fiber appear more lustrous. More light reaches our eyes. On the other hand, a woolen yarn has fibers crossing and going in all different directions. The different angles and bends of the individual fibers redirect light in all different directions, resulting in a duller appearance.

In addition to woolen and worsted techniques, the amount of twist you add can impact luster as well! The more twist added, the less luster. Why? The more bumps there are, the more light is diffused in different directions.

Try this!

Luster is impacted by how we spin. If we take a fairly lustrous fiber, how will the luster present in the finished yarn if we spin it with a worsted method vs a woolen method?  

You will need:

  • A sample of lustrous wool, like Teeswater, Wensleydale, or Cotswold
  • A spindle or spinning wheel
  1. Spin a sample of yarn using a woolen long draw.
  2. Spin a second sample of yarn using a short forward draw.
  3. Compare the two samples.
    1. Which one appears more lustrous? 
    2. What words would you use to describe the luster of each? 
    3. Can you think of a reason you might try to reduce the luster of a high-luster fiber by spinning it woolen?
    4. What other tricks could you try to increase or decrease the luster of your samples?

Challenge!

Take the same fiber and wet spin it. How does this sample reflect light when compared to the first two?

Tell us in the comments!

The Woolly Animal of Dawn 

Words and photos by Christina Socorro Yovovich 

No matter when I go to bed, I wake between 4:30–5:00 a.m. Months ago, I gave up fighting this and decided these predawn hours were for me. My husband often stays up late and has admitted that he relishes these solitary midnight hours because everyone else is asleep; nobody is going to make any demands on him. He can do what he likes – work until the wee hours, read old comics, watch shows I have no interest in. I understand, because for me the predawn hours are like this. And what do I do in these hours where nobody makes any demands? I create. Sometimes I knit. Sometimes I write. But mostly, I spin. 

I always open the west curtains covering the patio doors first, to let in the darkness. My spinning wheel lives in front of this floor to ceiling window, and when I am seated on the ottoman I place in front of the wheel, at first all I can see is my own reflection. Some mornings I put on a fiber arts podcast or an audiobook. Other mornings I choose to let my thoughts drift where they will. I pull out the wool of the moment, sometimes something sheep colored, sometimes dyed in the hues of a sunrise or a body of water, and I begin to spin. 

It is a tactile occupation. No matter how much I try to learn about the technical aspects of spinning, in the darkness at 4:30 a.m. spinning is simply me holding the woolly animal of dawn in my hands as my feet treadle in rhythm to my breaths, and I draft and let in the twist and then let the newly made yarn wind onto the bobbin, and none of it is thought, but feeling, an occupation of instinct. Although I only started spinning a year ago, my body believes it has been longer. My body believes I have been spinning since the predawn of agriculture, my hands setting a spindle twisting against my thigh over and over again as I draft the fiber in my hands. Don’t reason with the body, ever. 

There are thoughts as I spin, sometimes a tight focus on a book being read over my phone’s speaker. Sometimes simply my thoughts, going where they will. I am bipolar, having been diagnosed so for nearly three decades, and I have complex-PTSD, having been diagnosed so for less than a year. I have thoughts, hard thoughts, and though I try not to drown in them, I’ve found that if I let them drift through me while I spin in the dawn, they do not overwhelm me. My feet are treadling, my left hand holds the roving, my right hand lets in the twist. I am rooted and no memory can completely overtake me. 

I began knitting the year I turned 49, and a large reason was because I read knitting has a similar effect on those with PTSD as EMDR therapy. Eye Movement and Desensitization and Reprocessing therapy is a mental health technique that involves moving the eyes in a certain way under the direction of a mental health practitioner while recalling a traumatic memory. Its aim is to help a person process the trauma so that it becomes a thing that happened in the past and not a thing that still overtakes them in horrible flashbacks. I do not understand how or why it works, but it seems to have something to do with using different parts of the brain and with crossing the midline of the body. 

A couple months after I picked up knitting, I began to spin as well. I have not read it anywhere, but surely spinning, with how it uses the whole body, both sides of it, the feet in rhythm, the hands each with their separate task, surely spinning is the same as knitting when it comes to processing trauma. It allows me to have these memories without being overwhelmed. They come and then leave, and through it all, I am okay, still rooted to my wheel and my wool, not floating through recollections in a way that allows them to traumatize me anew. 

My window faces west, so I don’t see the sun rising over the Sandia mountains. Instead, I see the black sky gradually become alight. First just a hint of something not black. Then a rosy dawn. When I see the pink sky outside instead of my own reflection, I cease spinning. I have spun in the day. It is time to rise from the wheel to step into the bustle of making breakfasts, packing my son’s lunch, being a part of a family and community that does make demands on my time. I do so joyfully, fortified by my predawn creativity, by learning to let memories be memories and not things that overtake. I have not been a spinner for long, but already I cannot imagine a life without its grounding presence. 


Born and raised in Wisconsin, Christina Socorro Yovovich has lived in New Mexico since 1998. Her nonfiction has appeared in The Hunger, Cagibi, MUTHA Magazine, the Atticus Review, and elsewhere. She is currently working on and seeking representation for a fiber arts memoir about wool, mothering, and mental health. She can be found at https://christinasocorroyovovich.com/ 

I Want to Tell You About My Friend

I don’t want to tell you that Stephenie Gaustad was a great spinner. Everyone knows that. 

I don’t want to say she was a talented and generous fiber artist. If you have ever taken a class with her or read one of her books or articles, you already know that too.   

I want to tell you about how warm her hugs were and how she never let go first. I want you to know how funny she was, how her eyes twinkled when she smiled, how she followed her heart in all things, and how she loved getting in good trouble. I want to tell you about the Stephenie I knew and how much I loved her. 

The first time I fell into the arms of Stephenie Gaustad was at SOAR in 2010. Her flax to linen workshop was next to my textured yarns workshop. When I got to the part of the class where I have everyone spin a thick and thin singles yarn from cotton, a spinner in my class (who had recently taken a class with Steph) hopped up and ran out the door.  

The retting sounds from next door halted, and Stephenie Gaustad walked through the adjoining classroom door.  

“What’s this about spinning cotton thick and thin? Handspun cotton needs to be spun fine, with lots of twist, and very even.” 

I was not a cotton spinner. My spinning skill was not nearly at the cotton “spun fine, with lots of twist, and very even” level. I only used cotton as an (extreme) example of how you can spin any combed fiber into a thick and thin yarn if you pay attention to the staple length.  

I haltingly and nervously explained that even the shortest cotton can create a stable thick and thin singles yarn as long as you make your thick section shorter than the staple length so that the ends of the fibers are caught in the high-twist thin section on either end of the thick bit. I demonstrated as Stephenie (along with all my students and hers) stood around my wheel watching. 

When I finished, she whooped! 

She whooped and hugged me, and we never saw each other again when we didn’t hug and huddle up.  

Because we both made a living travelling to teach, we saw each other often. One evening, after several days of teaching, we sat next to each other, exhausted, in a Chinese restaurant. I leaned in and whispered to her all my plans for starting a magazine. She smiled and her eyes twinkled. You have never seen such a twinkle. 

When the first issue of PLY came out, she sent me a short length of handspun thick and thin cotton and a letter: 

Dearest Jacey, Ply is fantastic! I love that you have multiple voices on a single topic, and really hear the person as he/she takes time with answers. This is what strikes me first. I get the chance to focus on something, spend time with it and not rush off in another direction 2 pages later. I treasure this copy and will refer back to it time and again. 

Your enthusiasm for the craft and project is palpable too. It is so exciting. I feel transported back in time, actually to a decade when new magazines were popping up right and left, in different formats; it all was new and fresh. Ply is a breath of fresh air!

-Stephenie

Now it is time for Alden to add his 2 cents.  

Well, I am flabbergasted. The scope of the work is mindboggling. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination and energy. The mag is a visual knockout, the advertising is arranged with taste and finesse and considering the stated purpose “the magazine for handspinners” what can I say but bravo! Huzzah! You are a phoenix rising in a world of turkeys. 

-AA

From that first issue on, Stephenie was in almost every single issue of PLY and she and I were firm friends. I don’t even know if that’s true. I feel like I wasn’t friends with Stephenie –  we were family. She was the closest thing I had to a grandmother, and when my mom died, she was there for me. Stephenie’s hugs were the warmest and she’d hold on as long as I needed.  

Of course there were other things, business things, that happened – she became PLY’s technical editor, she taught at PLYAway every year, she wrote a wonderful book with us. But it’s the actual time I spent with Stephenie, the moments, that I remember and that mean the most. She went to a May Day festival at my kids’ school with me once. She beamed as we watched dozens of kids in handmade dresses, dancing and wrapping the May pole. She leaned over and whispered in my ear, “I’m pagan,” and held my hand the whole time.  

Last year she visited us in Oregon. I offered to fly her out, but she insisted on driving. She pulled up in a giant SUV filled floorboards to roof with spinning wheels and tools (almost all built for her by Alden). My kids unloaded the tools as Steph and I sat on the porch and talked about the future of fiber arts.  

That night, after dinner, Stephenie, the kids, and I played Telestrations – a cross between the old telephone game and Pictionary. I had never seen Steph laugh so hard as I did that night. Stephenie was a part of my life. She was a part of my family’s life. We were family. I will miss her forever. 

While she was here that time, we filmed the first Teacher Tea for the PLY Spinners Guild. It’s a segment where I sit down with spinning teachers, drink tea, and talk. It was so early in the PSG that we didn’t have good lighting yet, hadn’t figured out how to get a decent sound track, didn’t even have the PSG studio set up nicely, but none of that matters because Steph is such a joy. We’ve made the teacher tea with Steph public, viewable to everyone, guild member or not. Please sit down with some tea of your own and spend some time with this dear, darling woman. 

https://www.plyspinnersguild.com/videos/9-teacher-tea-steph

Stephenie Gaustad was a wonder, and the world is better for having her in it. I’m better for having known her. Since I heard the news, I’ve been rereading all the emails she’d ever sent me, and it is helping replace some of the tears with smiles. Her closing lines especially help. I’m including a few of them here. I hope they make you smile too. 

Hope that your spring days are full of beautiful green growth and smiles, 

-SG 

This morning’s rainbow reminded me of you. You are all the colors and you always bring a smile, 

-SG 

Well, the snow has turned to rain. It really is kind of late in the year for it. It is o.k. I have plenty of fiber to spin here, and a few wheels to do this. 

-SG 

You see, dear friend, I didn’t want to scare the hell out of you with dire futures. It ain’t like that one bit. I want to give you, dear friend, good news. And this is it.  

-SG 

The rain will pass, my dear Jacey. The rain will pass and you and I will keep growing, 

-SG 

So don’t fret over me. (In my best “Arnie voice”, “I’ll be back!”) 

-SG 

So I am laying here this evening basking in the glow of a completed job and oh boy, Jacey, my dear, are we going to have run raising some dust! Whoopee!  

-SG 

Stephenie Gaustad

August 1947–February 12, 2025 

New Guild Episode Drops Saturday!

Are you ready for this? The latest guild episode is coming! I repeat, the latest guild episode is coming!

Saturday (February 15, 2025) we reveal the 14th (and final) episode for season 1 of the PLY Spinners guild! It rounds out a season full of foundational spinning episodes taught by some of the best spinners and spinning teachers around. And boy, is it a doozy! Featuring several greats in our community—Stephenie Gaustad, Michelle Boyd, Roy Clemes, and Jacey Boggs Faulkner—this episode is a wrap of of the season with some (older) never-before-seen segments that were too good not to share, and some (newer) segments on small fiber processing tools and yarn handling tools. There’s some stuff on oiling and leaders, and a great, giant segment on getting started spinning (because Jacey didn’t want anyone to go any further without having a good handle on the basics). So if you just need a refresher, this baby should get you up to speed. Finally it also includes a segment on how to use the guild—a segment you can (and should) watch on YouTube. You won’t want to miss out.

If you’d like to learn more from your favorite fiber instructors, make sure your membership is active! Each month is jam packed with new instructional videos and virtual spin-ins. Membership is cumulative, meaning you get access not only to the current episode, but also to every previous episode and recorded spin-in as well.

New Monthly Building Skills Spin-in

The PLY Spinners Guild (PSG) hosts three 90 minute spin-ins every month:

  • On the first Sunday of every month, guild members meet and spin at 5 p.m. Pacific.  
  • On the third Sunday of every month, guild members meet and spin at 10 a.m. Pacific.

However, those spin-ins can get more technical and in-depth than some spinners are ready for or comfortable with. In response, we’re launching a new monthly spin-in! T

he Building Skills Spin-in will start in March and will take place at 5 p.m. Pacific on the third Thursday on each month.

The first one will be on March 20. Just like all the PSG spin-ins, guild members will get a spin-in link the week before the spin-in and it’s always posted in the PSG forums.  

The guild is priced at $85/year or $12/month. This is a very good deal for the amount of information and community you will get, especially since new video lessons are added every six weeks! This fee allows us to pay for the substantial hosting required by so many high-def videos and the charge per member to access the site, along with fairly compensating the teachers, editors, and everyone involved in making the guild work.

If you aren’t already a member, we think you’d definitely enjoy it!

The PLY Spinners Guild is a space for spinners at all levels of spinning. We are an inclusive and diverse community that embraces all spinners and welcomes everyone to create a brave space to question, challenge, and support one another. We strongly believe that the more diverse our community is, the stronger our community is. Our core beliefs of kindness, diversity, and inclusivity inform everything we do. Racism, sexism, and other forms of oppression will not be tolerated. We reserve the right to remove anyone who meaningfully and purposefully disrupts the community or makes other members feel unsafe. 

Call for Blog Submissions: Tension

While the Tension issue of PLY is already in the works (and it looks like another great one!) we are looking for quality related posts for the blog! Did you have an idea you didn’t submit? Or did you miss the submission window?

The blog process is much simpler than the magazine process (which involves contracts and samples sent in, photographs, tech editing, etc.) Instead, you’ll need to send your own photos, and your post will go through a copy edit but no other part of the magazine article process. If your blog submission is accepted and published, we’ll send you a $50 honorarium via PayPal.

Please submit your blog post proposal by March 15, 2025. If your post proposal is accepted, we’ll need your words and photos by May 1, 2025. We’ll be posting the Tension posts on the blog in June, July, and August 2025.

Find the mood board below! (Note: We’ve changed the colors for the issue from the ones on this mood board to something more “summery” so don’t feel limited to the colors here.)

PLY Summer 2025 – Tension (Blog posts)

Tension is one of those elements we use all the time while we spin. Think about all the ways tension figures into and impacts your spinning. We want to hear about all of them! 

Wheel tension and wheel systems: how do they work and which works best for what type of yarn? Is there a reason spinners might like this one over that one? How about drive bands and brake bands? How often should you change them, and what considerations go into the types of materials that are you favorites? What about e-spinners? 

It’s often confusing to keep track of the amount of tension while spinning. Do you have great tips on notating and measuring your take-up? 

Crosslacing is a fantastic technique for decreasing tension. When do you use it and how do you do it on different wheels. Do you have any other methods to reduce the tension? 

Tensile strength is all about how much tension a fiber can be put under before it breaks. Which fibers are the strongest? Which breeds? When prepping fibers, the amount of tension used often results in unwanted neps. Do you have tips for reducing or eliminating them on hand cards, a blending board, or a drum carder? 

Can the right amount of tension make or break the consistency while plying yarn? Why do we need tension to ply? What tips do you have to use tension to ply a consistent yarn? Is tension the key to reducing bumps in chain-ply yarns? What can you tell us about the different styles of kates and their tensioning systems and when you might use a particular type for both wheels and spindles? When do you apply more tension; when do you just let your bobbins spin? 

What about textured and art yarns? Bouclé, spirals, coils, beehives, core spun, and other textured yarns rely on differential tension while plying. Tell us how you determine how much and how little tension make the best textured yarns. How do you control the mixed tension and still keep a yarn tidy? Is there a yarn that uses no tension? 

How about color? Why do some colors seem to vibrate and explode when they are next to each other? Is there a way to make it happen or lessen the visual tension? 

What about the release of tension? How do you plan, spin, and weave a structure that collapses on itself? What about knitting? Releasing the tension in high-twist singles can create sculptural effects. Can you teach us about it? 

A Spinner’s Toolbox . . . Literally 

Words and photos by Kai Solon 

Every spinner’s most prized possession is most likely their wheel. Our wheels are what enable us spinners to do the thing we love. However, like all pieces of machinery, they have to be cared for and maintained. Now, this is not necessarily a “how to fix a broken wheel” tutorial because every wheel is different and every scenario is different. Today, I would just like to share with you a few essential tools every spinner should have handy to keep a wheel in working condition and fix solutions to tiny problems. 

Why should you keep tools around? 

First off, I am not telling you to start carrying around a woodshop’s worth of tools everywhere your wheel goes. That would be unreasonable. However, our wheels can be unpredictable, and a number of things could happen. A drive band could snap, a screw could come out, a spring could become uncoiled, or something simple like your wheel sounding super creaky and annoying. Having the basic tools around is helpful when your wheel decides to stop working out of the blue. 

For example, at the Junior Spinning Competition MDSW 2024, a contestant’s drive band’s knot suddenly came loose and we needed a quick fix to make it tight again. We were able to fix it in time for the competition, but events like these remind me how important it is to keep spare parts around! 

Of course, not everyone is going to be in a competition every time they spin. However, if you frequently demo, travel with your wheel, or are simply an avid spinner, keeping spare parts to your wheel can be a miracle when your wheel breaks or doesn’t work quite right. 

What exactly should you have? 

Each spinner will have different needs according to their wheel type. Some of these tools might even depend on individual preference. Not every one of these are extremely important. In fact, some of these only need to be used once in a blue moon. This might seem like a long list, but trust me, everything here has a purpose depending on the situation. 

1. Oil 

Oil is the one thing all spinners should keep handy (unless your wheel doesn’t require it). A good spinner should oil their wheel at least once every few times they spin if not every time. Oiling your wheel is quick and easy. You simply squirt a drop on the different moving (metal) parts and bearings (check your manufacturer for recommended oil placement). This will keep the bearings spinning smoothly against each other and will reduce friction that will most likely cause a really annoying squeak when you spin. If you spin frequently, oiling your wheel is key to having a smooth spin every time. 

2. Extra drive bands 

Drive bands can easily and quickly wear out/stretch out if you use your wheel often enough. Synthetic polyurethane can last for a long time, but you never know when the day might come that it will decide it’s served enough time. As for string or cotton bands, knots may easily come loose, and it can be hard to tie them a second time or sometimes they just have to be cut off. Frequent use and friction may also cause abrasion on the string and may cause weak spots, eventually leading to breakage. Your drive band is one of the most important components of your wheel, so ensure that you have a spare lying around your craft room. 

A quick note on drive bands: I suggest that you keep both a polyurethane and a string drive band around, especially if you like collecting antique wheels or you own a vintage brand wheel. In some situations, the drive band may or may not affect the speed and rate at which the yarn winds onto the bobbin. A heavier drive band may cause your bobbin/flyer to wind more yarn than you can spin. You may find yourself fighting the wheel to keep the yarn in your hands. 

This P.S. may not apply to you if you’ve had a wheel for ages with the same drive band. You already know what works and what doesn’t. However, if you’re trying a new-to-you wheel, and you find yourself struggling to spin at the rate your bobbin intakes yarn, try different drive bands to see if that helps you out. 

3. Beeswax 

For those of you with antique wheels, or who have string drive bands in general, beeswax is a must. Beeswax can make your drive band stronger and longer lasting. It also serves the purpose of adding a stronger grip to your drive band so it spins and moves the parts it needs to move with ease. You can easily keep a tiny chunk of beeswax with you and run it on the drive band at least once or twice every time you sit down to spin. The wax wears off, so constant application may be your best bet. 

4. Screwdrivers 

Depending on your wheel, screws might play a key role in certain parts of the wheel. For example, on my wheel, two screws help to keep plastic strips that connect the treadles to the wheel itself. These screws may come loose quickly or need to be removed to access and repair certain parts. For my electric spinners, most of the motors are held in place with screws attaching it to the spinner. Motors can, without a doubt, need replacing as they can be a delicate piece of machinery that can blow out or need to be switched out for a stronger, better one. Screwdrivers are most definitely one of, if not the most, valuable tool to keep on hand. 

5. Extra bits and bobs 

Everyone has different wheel types and styles. Wheels from different companies and wheelmakers may differ in shape, material, size, and parts. This means some parts for your wheel may be hard to come by because they are made specifically for your wheel. Therefore, if and when possible, buy these spare parts so you can replace them when something breaks. 

You never know when a part breaks down or has just served its purpose for long enough. This is why I personally like to keep spare bearings, plastic bits, and screws around for my wheel when possible. Because I often take my wheel out and about for demos, I don’t want to risk not being able to spin any longer because the screw fell out of my right treadle! 

Recommendations from other spinners 

I asked 57 spinners what they think is the most useful thing they keep around and why. Not entirely surprising, spinning wheel oil and spare drive bands tied, with both items each making up 35 percent of the responses – 70 percent of the responses total. 

For James P., oil is most important because “A wheel is a machine which has various bushings and bearings. If the bearings are sealed then that’s easy, no maintenance needed, but invariably most bobbins or flyers sit in either bronze, leather, or plastic bearings. To keep those spinning smoothly, quietly and so as they don’t alter my takeup, they really benefit from very regular oiling. Regular oiling (I oil every 30–45 mins) also cleanses the bearings as well as lubricating them to ensure particulates don’t prematurely wear them down. For me it’s the single most important thing I do to maintain my wheel as I spin.” 

Here’s what Karen B. said about her drive bands: “My Majacraft Rose has a plastic drive band. I am not sure how easy it would be to make a temporary one out of cotton. That being said, if my drive band is broken, I can’t spin. To be prepared, I have a little case with all these items that I keep in my spinning travel box. It goes with me to all guild meetings, demos, or just a spinning day in the park.” 

Screwdrivers also seemed to be a popular choice among the spinners, and Callie W. provided an excellent explanation as to why: “A screwdriver is the only tool that I have used on my wheel. Sometimes the fasteners holding the wheel together get slightly loose, or the screws on the treadles loosen.” 

Conclusion 

Wheel maintenance is key to good spinning. Maintenance will keep your wheel running smoothly and will leave you to worry about your yarn and not what your wheel’s issues are. Again, this is just a general list of tools, but everyone has their own unique preferences and wheels. Like so many other aspects of our craft, find what works for you. When you have a wheel and method that works for you, you’ll be on your path to success. Happy spinning! 


Kai Solon is a young fiber artist who enjoys spending his free time spinning, weaving, and natural dyeing and has also recently dabbled in kilt making. Kai shares his fiber journey on Instagram and YouTube as @FiberByNature. Outside fiber, you’ll find Kai playing his heart out in his high school drumline. 

Book Review: Marking Time with Fabric and Thread by Tommye McClure Scanlin

Marking Time with Fabric and Thread: Calendars, Diaries, and Journals within Your Fiber Craft 

by: Tommye McClure Scanlin 
Schiffer Craft 
$34.99, Hardback, 198 pages with 100 color images 
Published: October 28, 2024 
Buy now at Bookshop.org
Reviewed by: Karen Robinson 

PLY had the pleasure of sharing an article by Sarah Swett in the Cloth (Autumn 2019) issue. I remember being fascinated while reading about her practices of creation. She writes the foreword in this book, and her words about marking time using crafting made me want to dive right into the book. 

The author, Tommye McClure Scanlin, is a tapestry weaver and finds tapestry weaving to be a slow process, which allows for a lot of time to think about that process. She decided to try making a project a daily practice and thus was born her “tapestry diaries.” She shared her craft with others, in person and online, and those weavers and fiber artists began their own version of tapestry diaries. 

This book is an exploration of various ways that Scanlin and other fiber artists have used their crafts to “mark time.” She asked many individuals to share their work and asked them the same three questions: what is their daily practice, why did they start and why do they continue it, and what medium they use for it. The practices of those fiber artists are included in this book, in their own words, along with many color photos. 

The chapters cover various types of daily practices from data visualization (think temperature blankets) and diaries to adding codes within fiber arts projects. One of the last chapters gives some specific ideas for how you might start your own daily fiber practice and blank templates are included in the back of the book. 

Because of the author’s background with tapestry weaving, many of the fiber artists and projects in this book involve that medium. I would have liked to see a bit more variety in the types of mediums being used in this book, though we do get some examples from quilting, embroidery and other stitching, mixed media, knitting and crochet, and even one using plastic packaging. 

This is a gorgeous book, full of inspiring projects. Whether you want simply to read about and see the work of others or get an idea of the types of projects you could do for your own daily practice, even if you’re not a tapestry weaver, this book would be a fabulous addition to your fiber arts library. 

Tip for Spinning Sustainably: an Excerpt from the Care Issue

Excerpt from “Spinning Sustainably” by Diana Hawthorne, PLY Issue 47, Winter 2024

Prioritize natural fibers 

As a spinner you are likely already spinning wool, silk, cotton, or linen. Natural fiber is a more climate-friendly choice than synthetic fibers like acrylic and polyester, which are made from petroleum. Washing and working with fibers causes microscopic pieces to break off and end up in our waterways. With synthetic fibers, these microplastics create problems that natural microfibers do not. If you are spinning yarn with synthetic fibers (like Angelina), consider using that yarn for a finished object that requires minimal washing, such as a shawl as opposed to a sweater. This can help prevent some microplastics from entering our waterways. 

Bio-nylon, which is made in a closed loop system (minimizing chemical waste and pollution), is becoming more available to spinners now. It is biodegradable like natural fibers. Numerous labmade naturally derived fibers are available to spinners as well. In general, fibers called lyocell, modal, and the brand Tencel are made in a closed loop system and are less harmful to the environment than fibers like rayon and viscose. All of these regenerated fibers are processed in a way that uses more energy to get to the same starting point as the natural fibers. 

Not all natural fibers are created equal: flax and hemp production requires much less water and chemicals than cotton. Organic cotton has a significantly different impact than conventionally grown cotton for the same reason. The process of raising fiber animals contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Some practices can minimize or offset the emissions, and sheep often thrive on land that is otherwise not ideal for farming plants, so wool can still be a good choice! 


Would you like to learn more about sustainable spinning?

Spin Together 2025

We are excited to announce that PLY will be joining in on the Spin Together festivities this year!

What is Spin Together?

Spin Together is about the joy of spinning and the opportunity to share that joy with other spinners. It’s also a fun competition that will take place beginning at noon on February 22, 2025, and ending at noon on March 1, 2025 (noon in your time zone). It all takes place online in Facebook groups, and you can participate from anywhere in the world.

Does PLY have a team?

Ply has TWO teams! Each team maxes out at 25 people and we said, well, one team just isn’t enough! Our teams are called PLY Magazine Z-Twist and PLY Magazine S-Twist. While both of these teams will be full of cool people who read and contribute to the magazine, only one twist direction can reign supreme. Or, you know, each will serve its purpose in its own time or something like that.

How do I join one of the PLY teams?

Between January 28 and February 15, 2025, you will be able to go to this page and sign up to be on a team. The fee is $15 per person, paid directly to Spin Together when you sign up. They also encourage a donation to Habitat for Humanity. Remember, there is a limited number of spaces on each team, so signing up early gives you the best chance of getting on the team you want.

Where will all this happen?

We will host two groups on Facebook for participants to chat and see each others’ progress. We will also host a Zoom spin-in for both teams together at some point during the week! Spin Together also has a Facebook group for everyone participating in the event.

Are the prizes?

Of course there are prizes. On top of the generous contests and prizes offered by the Spin Together organizers, our PLY teams will also have our own challenges! A few lucky winners will win a year-long subscription to PLY magazine! (Either a new subscription or extending your current subscription).

For general information about Spin Together:

More information coming soon via social media!