Guest Blogger

A Spinner’s Toolbox . . . Literally 

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Words and photos by Kai Solon 

Every spinner’s most prized possession is most likely their wheel. Our wheels are what enable us spinners to do the thing we love. However, like all pieces of machinery, they have to be cared for and maintained. Now, this is not necessarily a “how to fix a broken wheel” tutorial because every wheel is different and every scenario is different. Today, I would just like to share with you a few essential tools every spinner should have handy to keep a wheel in working condition and fix solutions to tiny problems. 

Why should you keep tools around? 

First off, I am not telling you to start carrying around a woodshop’s worth of tools everywhere your wheel goes. That would be unreasonable. However, our wheels can be unpredictable, and a number of things could happen. A drive band could snap, a screw could come out, a spring could become uncoiled, or something simple like your wheel sounding super creaky and annoying. Having the basic tools around is helpful when your wheel decides to stop working out of the blue. 

For example, at the Junior Spinning Competition MDSW 2024, a contestant’s drive band’s knot suddenly came loose and we needed a quick fix to make it tight again. We were able to fix it in time for the competition, but events like these remind me how important it is to keep spare parts around! 

Of course, not everyone is going to be in a competition every time they spin. However, if you frequently demo, travel with your wheel, or are simply an avid spinner, keeping spare parts to your wheel can be a miracle when your wheel breaks or doesn’t work quite right. 

What exactly should you have? 

Each spinner will have different needs according to their wheel type. Some of these tools might even depend on individual preference. Not every one of these are extremely important. In fact, some of these only need to be used once in a blue moon. This might seem like a long list, but trust me, everything here has a purpose depending on the situation. 

1. Oil 

Oil is the one thing all spinners should keep handy (unless your wheel doesn’t require it). A good spinner should oil their wheel at least once every few times they spin if not every time. Oiling your wheel is quick and easy. You simply squirt a drop on the different moving (metal) parts and bearings (check your manufacturer for recommended oil placement). This will keep the bearings spinning smoothly against each other and will reduce friction that will most likely cause a really annoying squeak when you spin. If you spin frequently, oiling your wheel is key to having a smooth spin every time. 

2. Extra drive bands 

Drive bands can easily and quickly wear out/stretch out if you use your wheel often enough. Synthetic polyurethane can last for a long time, but you never know when the day might come that it will decide it’s served enough time. As for string or cotton bands, knots may easily come loose, and it can be hard to tie them a second time or sometimes they just have to be cut off. Frequent use and friction may also cause abrasion on the string and may cause weak spots, eventually leading to breakage. Your drive band is one of the most important components of your wheel, so ensure that you have a spare lying around your craft room. 

A quick note on drive bands: I suggest that you keep both a polyurethane and a string drive band around, especially if you like collecting antique wheels or you own a vintage brand wheel. In some situations, the drive band may or may not affect the speed and rate at which the yarn winds onto the bobbin. A heavier drive band may cause your bobbin/flyer to wind more yarn than you can spin. You may find yourself fighting the wheel to keep the yarn in your hands. 

This P.S. may not apply to you if you’ve had a wheel for ages with the same drive band. You already know what works and what doesn’t. However, if you’re trying a new-to-you wheel, and you find yourself struggling to spin at the rate your bobbin intakes yarn, try different drive bands to see if that helps you out. 

3. Beeswax 

For those of you with antique wheels, or who have string drive bands in general, beeswax is a must. Beeswax can make your drive band stronger and longer lasting. It also serves the purpose of adding a stronger grip to your drive band so it spins and moves the parts it needs to move with ease. You can easily keep a tiny chunk of beeswax with you and run it on the drive band at least once or twice every time you sit down to spin. The wax wears off, so constant application may be your best bet. 

4. Screwdrivers 

Depending on your wheel, screws might play a key role in certain parts of the wheel. For example, on my wheel, two screws help to keep plastic strips that connect the treadles to the wheel itself. These screws may come loose quickly or need to be removed to access and repair certain parts. For my electric spinners, most of the motors are held in place with screws attaching it to the spinner. Motors can, without a doubt, need replacing as they can be a delicate piece of machinery that can blow out or need to be switched out for a stronger, better one. Screwdrivers are most definitely one of, if not the most, valuable tool to keep on hand. 

5. Extra bits and bobs 

Everyone has different wheel types and styles. Wheels from different companies and wheelmakers may differ in shape, material, size, and parts. This means some parts for your wheel may be hard to come by because they are made specifically for your wheel. Therefore, if and when possible, buy these spare parts so you can replace them when something breaks. 

You never know when a part breaks down or has just served its purpose for long enough. This is why I personally like to keep spare bearings, plastic bits, and screws around for my wheel when possible. Because I often take my wheel out and about for demos, I don’t want to risk not being able to spin any longer because the screw fell out of my right treadle! 

Recommendations from other spinners 

I asked 57 spinners what they think is the most useful thing they keep around and why. Not entirely surprising, spinning wheel oil and spare drive bands tied, with both items each making up 35 percent of the responses – 70 percent of the responses total. 

For James P., oil is most important because “A wheel is a machine which has various bushings and bearings. If the bearings are sealed then that’s easy, no maintenance needed, but invariably most bobbins or flyers sit in either bronze, leather, or plastic bearings. To keep those spinning smoothly, quietly and so as they don’t alter my takeup, they really benefit from very regular oiling. Regular oiling (I oil every 30–45 mins) also cleanses the bearings as well as lubricating them to ensure particulates don’t prematurely wear them down. For me it’s the single most important thing I do to maintain my wheel as I spin.” 

Here’s what Karen B. said about her drive bands: “My Majacraft Rose has a plastic drive band. I am not sure how easy it would be to make a temporary one out of cotton. That being said, if my drive band is broken, I can’t spin. To be prepared, I have a little case with all these items that I keep in my spinning travel box. It goes with me to all guild meetings, demos, or just a spinning day in the park.” 

Screwdrivers also seemed to be a popular choice among the spinners, and Callie W. provided an excellent explanation as to why: “A screwdriver is the only tool that I have used on my wheel. Sometimes the fasteners holding the wheel together get slightly loose, or the screws on the treadles loosen.” 

Conclusion 

Wheel maintenance is key to good spinning. Maintenance will keep your wheel running smoothly and will leave you to worry about your yarn and not what your wheel’s issues are. Again, this is just a general list of tools, but everyone has their own unique preferences and wheels. Like so many other aspects of our craft, find what works for you. When you have a wheel and method that works for you, you’ll be on your path to success. Happy spinning! 

Kai Solon is a young fiber artist who enjoys spending his free time spinning, weaving, and natural dyeing and has also recently dabbled in kilt making. Kai shares his fiber journey on Instagram and YouTube as @FiberByNature. Outside fiber, you’ll find Kai playing his heart out in his high school drumline. 

Guest Blogger

Farm to Wheel: Supporting local shepherds 

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Words and photos by Donna Kay 

I have become increasingly aware of the importance of buying local when I can: the food I eat, the clothes I wear, the wool I use for my spinning. Is it possible for us as spinners to buy local wool to fulfill our spinning needs and support local shepherds at the same time? When we purchase locally, we play a part, however small, in contributing to sustainable agriculture in our part of the world. Additional benefits include providing support to the rural economy and helping to ensure that local agriculture stays alive and thriving. 

Benefits of supporting local farms 

It is my experience as a shepherd and spinner that many flocks exist because of the love for the sheep not the profit hoped to be made. The harsh reality is that the price obtained for a fleece does not even come close to covering the expense of producing it. From the cost of feeding, veterinary care, and shearing to the labor involved in caring for that flock, it is often a losing proposition financially. 

I feel strongly about directly supporting those who raise our woolly friends; we are truly fortunate to have such dedicated shepherds. I highly recommend seeking out your local shepherds and seeing what they have to offer. Start a conversation with your fellow spinners and find out who they know. Some sheep farms welcome inquiries from spinners interested in learning about their flock and the possibility of purchasing a fleece. You may be able to meet the sheep providing your wool! Check out the fleeces available at your local sheep and wool festival if you are fortunate to have one in your area. 

A full fleece too much to consider? My spinning friends often enable each other by sharing a fleece. Not interested in working with a raw fleece? Many small wool mills will process a single fleece for you into lovely clean roving. 

A local-to-me Shetland flock 

Often small producers attempt to fill a niche by raising unique sheep breeds that may not be a viable choice to raise on a commercial scale. One such farm in my area is Lonach Farm, nestled in the foothills of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. This bucolic setting is complete with an 1870s farmhouse, barn, and a pasture. Maureen Fleming began her shepherding journey in 2005 with two Shetland wethers. Her breed choice was partially influenced by her Scottish ancestry but also by the versatility and adaptability of the breed. A knitter at that time, she now is a spinner and a proponent of handprocessing these unique Shetland fleeces. 

Her flock now numbers twenty-five, and they exhibit the wide array of color variations and fleece types that the breed is known for. Her Shetlands have been selected from farms in New England and beyond. Early on, the decision was made to raise sheep with a focus on producing premier fleeces rather than breeding or showing. This choice has allowed her to produce a prime product for the fortunate spinners who are able to add one to their stash. 

While growing their wool, the flock grazes at home for part of the year but spends the summer at “camp,” grazing at a nearby conservation farm. This is a mutually beneficial arrangement – the sheep have luscious grass to feed on and the farm’s pasture is maintained and the soil aerated and fertilized by the sheep. In the early fall they return home where they spend the winter eating locally harvested hay. The sheep are coated from then until shearing time, which helps keep the fleeces as free of VM as possible. 

Late winter is shearing time! The farm hosts a highly anticipated shearing day party where you will find the shearer, woolly sheep, friends, food, and a warm fire (outside!). This lively group of like-minded people gather in the barn, anticipating the choosing of their fleece, hopefully from a favorite sheep! Old and new friends chat, observe, and occasionally help maneuver the sheep for the shearer. The shorn sheep are recoated for warmth and the cycle of growing the new fleece begins. At the end of the day, spinners leave with their well skirted treasures – some to process themselves, others to be sent to a local mill. 

Wherever you may live, please consider directly supporting your local shepherds in any way you can to help ensure continued access to local fiber. Even in an urban area you might just be surprised at what resources might be found a short distance away. Spinners certainly love to share their experiences – don’t be afraid to ask where you might be able to make a connection with a local shepherd! Your search may be rewarded with the delightful experience of taking a fleece from the farm to the wheel. 

Donna Kay is a knitting instructor and designer as well as an accomplished handspinner. Playing with wool is one of her favorite activities. You can find her on Ravelry as treeoflife and on Instagram as treeoflifeknitter. 

Guest Blogger

Celebrating Risks

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Words and photos by Wendy Emo 

I’ve spent the past two years taking risks with my spinning. While some of my new yarns are lovely, many did not turn out as I’d hoped. I processed and spun new-to-me Teeswater and Wensleydale fleeces (culminating in one amazing tunic and several duds), tried new spinning techniques (bouclé, cloud, and lockspinning, which all worked), attempted dyeing (I definitely did not get what I expected), persevered during a challenge project from my guild (this made me bananas for at least a month during all the spinning and knitting “fails” before the project ultimately turned out well), knit alternating strips of sari silk fabric with handspun (yuck for the first go, that’s for sure), and subbed last-minute as a three-day spinning workshop teacher (the flurry and fiber explosion in my studio were impressive, and I certainly had fun). 

I’ve discovered that I need to celebrate my attempts at the new and different. I sell items at a gallery, and a few types of items sell fairly well. When I explore and challenge myself, I’m taking time away from production of the “known,” so that’s a bit of a risk (even though the income isn’t high, the gallery needs stock). On the other hand, sticking with the known risks boredom. Spinning what is easy and known is relaxing, but then I don’t learn a new skill. 

Challenging myself sometimes results in discouragement to such an extent that I don’t even want to look at my wheels or fiber stockpile. I’m not confident with combining color. When the guild passed out random bundles to spin for a gift exchange, I couldn’t imagine how to put together dark purple, pale pink, and baby blue in any way that would make something I’d want to give to anyone, let alone another artist. I avoided my wheels for five full days after that. When I realize that I’m intentionally not spinning due to discouragement, I need to take care of myself rather than avoid my fiber stash in favor of the chocolate stash. In this case, my emotional self needed some encouragement, but the project turned out well in the end. 

Other artists also notice this connection of emotional reactions to one’s creations. I overheard a painter suggest to another artist that she focus on what she does like in a problematic piece rather than making a broad blanket statement about not liking it. I figure that this is great advice for taking care of myself as a spinner. If I identify the positive attributes of my art, I then have changed my outlook. Perhaps I can think of the challenging colors differently, such as reminding myself that maroon and light blue sometimes show up in the morning and evening skies. This then might inspire me to add an additional color to tie them together. 

Naming the positive attributes of my ineffective experiments resembles changing a mindset. I tend to think of Merino/silk top as meant exclusively for fine-spun worsted yarns. When I followed my maxim and made a 2-ply yarn intended for a lace scarf, the gorgeous top of pecan-toffee-caramel* became a “ho-hum” light brown without the lovely subtle shades. The remaining singles sat abandoned and ignored in my studio, and I went off to a workshop with Judith MacKenzie. 

Judith had us spin both eri and muga silk (singles). These were so exquisite to spin that I left these bobbins alone even after Judith encouraged us to use them. When I finally needed these bobbins, I remembered her suggestion to try the singles in plying. The silk singles were close to the same weight and in complementary tones to the toffee singles. I decided to ply the silk and toffee together. The addition of the extra silky shimmer and two tones brought out the best in the singles. The finished yarn shows the different response the two singles fibers had to the rinse, but I was after a good color effect rather than a completely smooth yarn. Those pecan-toffee-caramel tones glow in the yarn. Not only did I have to recognize the positive attributes of the singles (even, fine, great color, nice hand), but I had to do something different. I don’t think I would have experimented with silk singles without the encouragement of another spinner. It wouldn’t have occurred to me. 

Other spinners contribute to my self care, not only in suggesting new approaches but also just in sharing our creations. Celebrating the triumphs and sharing the funny mistakes is such an encouragement. One day recently I made a 3-ply skein of dark BFL, the first part of a fleece I hoped to have all spun before the next festival. I was pretty pleased with it until I finished it and discovered I had overplied it. Judith MacKenzie says that yarn judges can tell from looking at a yarn if a spinner was stressed while spinning. I had been watching Pirates of the Caribbean while plying. It showed in the yarn that I must have been anxious for Orlando Bloom’s life during all that swashing and buckling, even though last time I watched the movie, he was safe. 

My favorite mistake yarn, however, is “Going the Wrong Way” – a very elastic energized yarn I unintentionally plyed the wrong way a few years ago. The skein stretches from about 10 inches to 28 inches, nearly three times its relaxed length! 

When I share these yarns with others, both “Pirates” and “Wrong Way” always give us a good laugh, which helps me enjoy my mistakes. I was happy to read Jillian Moreno’s comment (Yarnitecture, 2016) that an overplied yarn like “Pirates” probably wouldn’t affect the project I had planned for it – a watch cap for my husband. I may keep “Wrong Way” for posterity. 

Celebrating my mistakes and triumphs makes me realize how much I’ve learned about spinning since I started taking more risks. I can understand the technical descriptions in spinning publications, explain them to someone else, and apply them to my own spinning. I now give myself permission to give away fibers and fleeces I thought I’d enjoy but which are not yet “my thing.” I’ve learned that I can make complex-looking yarns, even though I see the flaws which identify them as a learner’s handspun. 

I know my emotional self is connected to my physical well-being. When my attitude toward spinning is not positive, maybe I need to get out for a walk. Perhaps I need to change my position at the wheel, check the angle of my legs, notice where my hands and shoulders are, or put a pillow under my seat. It might be that my hands are too close or too far apart. Am I tense? With new fleeces, new ways of spinning, or when I’m trying to spin perfectly, I might be on edge. The first place I notice tension while playing piano is in my right ankle. When I intentionally relax that tension, I usually play better. In spinning, that tension is usually in my hands, and that tension affects my spinning. 

My physical self, my emotional self, my intellectual self, and my social self – all of these affect my spinning. Thank goodness for my fiber friends and husband. I share my fails and successes with these people. They sometimes suggest changes and always grin along with me when I share what actually worked. Mostly, when I ask the question “Do you think this will work?” they say, “Just give it a try!” 

According to some motivation researchers, we all are likely to stick for a long time with tasks we choose, over which we have some control, which engage our imagination, and whose challenge level is appropriate although the outcome is not guaranteed. If there are social elements to the task, that’s often motivating, but to a lesser degree and not for everyone (the same with achievement recognition and competition). The next time you approach that interesting project, note that you’re taking care of your creative self and motivating yourself just by what you’re choosing to do and how you do it. Celebrate your explorations and share them with others and let us celebrate with you. 

*This fiber is known as “Lynx,” a 70 percent Merino, 30 percent Tussah silk blend. 

Wendy Emo, PhD, takes risks playing keyboard in open mics, music jams, and a surf band when she’s not finding ways to use up (or add to) her fiber stash. 

Guest Blogger

Planning Your Crafting Year 

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The beginning of the year is the perfect time for planning your crafting year – all the things you want to accomplish in your creative life before the next calendar year arrives. The first thing I want you to consider is your Why. 

Why do you want to plan your crafting year? We all have different reasons. Perhaps you want to prepare handcrafted gifts for a family event or holiday. Maybe you’re ready to replace parts of your wardrobe with unique, handspun pieces. Or perhaps you want to improve certain skills to become a more proficient spinner. Understanding your Why will help you plan and adjust your year. Plan your year so your crafting reflects your Why and maintain flexibility for any life changes. 

Spinning is a unique hobby because the end product, yarn, is just the raw material for another textile craft. As a multicraftual maker, I include using beautiful handspun yarn in my crafting year. As a spinner who enjoys working from raw fleece, my crafting includes picking and scouring fleece, fiber preparation, and sometimes dyeing. 

Make a wish list 

I use two tools for planning my projects: a wish list and make nine. Grab a notebook, pencil, and your favorite beverage. If you already follow a bullet journal practice, as described by Katherine Mead in the “Journaling to Grow” article, reserve a place in your journal for your crafting/creative wish list. This allows you to add items as they come to you and review them when planning your year. 

Some examples of a wish list: 

  • Create a winter wardrobe for me 
  • Create a summer wardrobe for a significant other 
  • Spin a collection of 2-ply handspun yarns in the same weight (sport, DK, worsted) for use in various projects 
  • Create warp and weft yarn for two stoles 
  • Spin the box of summer dyeing fiber 
  • Spin full commercial hand-dyed braids (fractal, gradient, rill, raindrop, and marled) 
  • Spin complementary colors for a colorwork sweater to be knit with commercial yarn 
  • Spin two braids of fiber for an accessory 
  • Become proficient with the dizzing-off-the-hand-carder technique using five different commercial braids or wool breeds 
  • Prep fiber and spin the pound/half a kilo of scoured fleece from last summer 
  • Spin with my spindles at least 15 minutes every day 
  • Practice fiber preparation with the Lock Pop and drum carder 
  • Scour one or two pails of raw fleece from the last fleece auction 
  • Spin through the Fiber Club braids received every three months 

Adding items to your wish list doesn’t mean you’ll tackle them all this year. This is just the first step. 

Choose a theme 

Along with your Why, choose a theme for your crafting year, such as His Wardrobe, My Summer Wardrobe, or Intentional Learning from Stash – whatever resonates with you. 

Draw a grid with nine spaces and title it with your chosen theme. Fill your make nine grid using your Why and wish list to guide your decisions. Here’s an example of my planning for the next 12 months: 

I want to spin beautiful yarns compatible with colorwork projects, improve my proficiency with fiber tools like the drum carder and the Lock Pop, and keep practicing my fiber prep skills with hand cards and blending boards. My make nine projects align with these interests and the crafting I enjoy. Note that I’ve included three works-in-progress. As spinners know, our craft is slow, and projects often carry over from the previous year. I also left one square open for any inspiring project or make-along I encounter during the year. 

Find your tasks 

Filling the make nine grid with attractive projects is satisfying, but it won’t become a reality if you keep it tucked away. New projects will fill your time if you let them. 

List all the tasks needed to make your crafting list a reality. Identify the roadblocks for each project. For example, scouring fleece or fiber dyeing may be seasonal tasks best done in warmer months. Account for fiber prep time before spinning the singles or sampling time if that’s a roadblock for you. Add each task to a checklist you can mark off as you complete them. 

Once I have my grid and checklist, I print the page and add it to my bullet journal. You might choose to stick it in your crafting area. Place it somewhere visible where you can check off tasks as you tackle them. 

Craft your year! 

For critical roadblock tasks, I schedule them on my calendar as I would a work meeting, ensuring I reserve time for them. I also add monthly tasks to my journal to stay on track with project progress. I enjoy photographing the process and sharing moments on social media. Reviewing these photos later inspires me and helps me remember successful processes. 

Two or three months before the end of the year, I reassess my crafting progress and celebrate my successes. I also reflect on any projects left unfinished and consider whether I was too ambitious, failed to account for roadblocks, or got distracted by new patterns or spin-alongs. I include this reflection in planning the upcoming year to better align with how I like to spend my crafting time. 

Planning my crafting year helps me be intentional with my projects, crafting garments that complement my daily life and ensuring I incorporate learning into my making. I hope what I’ve shared helps you start planning your crafting year too! 

Greta lives in the Greater Vancouver area, Canada. She enjoys sampling and planning her crafting time. She loves being the Education Program Coordinator for the School of SweetGeorgia, where she is lucky to make a career of her passion. She shares life with her husband, five kids and a house full of wool, good food, coffee and tea. She may be found at the SOS forums, knitting, spinning, or walking with her family. 

Words and photos by Greta Cornejo 

Guest Blogger

The “World’s Cutest Sheep” in Colorado 

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On a dusty road, halfway between Denver and Fort Collins, sits the thirty-five acre farm of Davis Family Livestock, with stunning views of Long’s Peak to the west and the piercing blue sky overhead. My focus, however, is much closer to the ground: on the new lambs chewing on my shoelaces. Affectionately called “the world’s cutest sheep,” the Valais Blacknose are the showstoppers of the Davis farm. The breed originated in the Valais region of Switzerland, and though endangered, it has grown in popularity though Europe, Australia, and the United States in recent years. While many breeds of sheep tend to be wary of people other than their shepherds, the Valais eagerly demand attention from everyone.  

The Davis family began breeding Valais Blacknose sheep in a roundabout way. A friend of Anne’s had told her about a British show with the cutest sheep, and it piqued Anne’s interest. After much research and discussion, Rob and Anne decided that the Valais Blacknose sheep would be the perfect animal to start their farm because the Valais have to be marketed differently than other breeds. Due to their rarity, newness, and novelty, one doesn’t need to run thousands of heads on massive acreage to make money. Plus, at the time, no one else in Colorado was raising the breed.

“There’s no mystery on how to raise sheep,” Anne told me. “We’ve been doing it for thousands of years.” But breeding Valais Blacknose does come with some unique challenges. The USDA does not allow the live import of sheep or goats. The only way to introduce new breeds of sheep to the U.S. is through imported semen and embryos, which go through rigorous genetic testing. Additionally, breeders want semen from rams that meet the Swiss standards for size, quality of fiber, and coloring. It takes a long time to meet all these requirements. In 2016, New Zealand was the first country to export Valais Blacknose semen to the U.S., with embryos following later. A couple years ago, the UK began exporting semen, and in 2024 began exporting embryos as well.  

Then it’s a matter of time and careful breeding. By the fifth generation of lambs, both ewes and rams are U.S. purebred Valais Blacknose sheep. The Davis family began their breed-up program with several Scottish Blackface sheep, and some first- and second-generation Valais sheep. They were purchased from a woman in Idaho who had started the program on her farm but had to stop due to some personal health challenges. The Davis family bought her sheep and continued the work she started. Anne told me that the two of them are friends to this day.   

Rob and Anne Davis purchased their 35-acre farm in 2020, the same year they began breeding Valais Blacknose sheep. Both come from agriculture backgrounds, Rob from a ranch in Colorado, and Anne from a fruit and vegetable farm in Oregon, and when Rob retired in 2017, the family began considering their next steps. Rob has a PhD in Agriculture Economics and Anne holds a master’s degree in Plant Pathology, but both wanted something more tangible to leave as a legacy for their two children. Their daughter Maddie has a passion for livestock and plans to take over the farm in the future. 

Higher education has been a significant part of the life of the Davis family, and they highly value the role that education plays in communities and relationships. Tours of the Davis farm are always free because Rob and Anne want their farm to be as accessible as possible. During the 2024 lambing season, they gave several tours a week, with lambs being delivered during a couple of the tours! Their tours typically begin with a walk around the farm to meet all the animals. In addition to the Valais Blacknose sheep, the Davis farm currently has Scottish Blackface sheep, Rambouillet sheep, a guard llama and alpaca, and several horses. The tour wraps up in the barn where Anne has put together an in-depth display of the fleece-to-product process. The display includes raw fleeces, a skirting table, handspinning tools, a dye pot, looms, and felting tools. I’ve led several handspinning demonstrations for tours, which allows visitors to watch and learn to spin yarn from Valais wool. In 2024, the Davises also bought an authentic sheep herder wagon from the early 1900s to add to the tour!   

Anne and Rob want their farm to be a resource for people of all backgrounds. They also mentor other breed-up programs. Anyone who buys sheep from the Davis family and has questions about breeding is welcome to give Anne a call, and she will help in any way she can. They are transparent with everything they do. “This is a small enough breed where we need to be supporting and working together,” Anne told me. “We need to be cooperating instead of competing.” The Davis family was the first to bring the Valais Blacknose breed to Colorado and produced the first purebred Valais ram in the state. They are proud to have led the way and now get to celebrate the success of other breed-up programs in Colorado. 

The farm invites CSU vet students to gain experience by watching procedures, and in the summer of 2024, the Davis family welcomed their first intern: a local high schooler interested in studying large animal veterinary science in college. Her work on the farm will also gain her school credit, so the program benefits both the Davis family and students interested in exploring agricultural vocations. There is always plenty of work to be done on the farm, and while Rob and Anne’s children, Roy and Maddie, help out when they are available, both currently have other jobs away from the farm.  

The last time Anne and I met for coffee, I asked her about the biggest challenges in running their farm. She didn’t hesitate. “The physical demands. Especially the heat.” The summer heat on the high plains isn’t just difficult for farmers, it can also be hard on the sheep. Colorado is so dusty that the dust irritates the sheep’s lungs and can lead to dust pneumonia. The Davises monitor their sheep closely to prevent pneumonia. To breed and raise healthy sheep, the farmer needs to be familiar with the environmental and climate factors that affect their livestock. But Anne isn’t discouraged by these challenges. To the Davis family, being close to the land and having a purpose is incredibly rewarding for them. The family gets to see new life and watch their animals grow and thrive. They get to see the joy on the faces of young children visiting a farm for the first time and the memories that are brought back for older visitors who haven’t been on a farm in years. Anne told me she especially loves when people come back for return visits. “If you think we are cool enough that you want to take your time to come back, that’s pretty special.”  

Anyone interested in touring Davis Family Livestock is welcome to contact Anne through the contact page on their farm website: https://www.davisfamilylivestock.com/contact 

Rowena Zuercher is a freelance editor and researcher who dedicates most of her free time to fiber and textiles. She lives in Aurora, Colorado with her husband Ryan and their turtle, ball python, and aquarium of fish. You can learn about her many heritage craft explorations on Instagram @homesaponified. 

Words and photos by Rowena Zuercher (except Davis family photo, which is from Anne Davis) 

Meagan Condon

A Spinner’s Spreadsheet

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by Jolie A. Elder 

While spinning need not be heavily mathematical, in some situations math can be helpful. If you are math-averse, having these calculations in a reference spreadsheet can be a big help. 

Disclosure: I have minimal skills at Excel. While my final spreadsheet is not the most elegant, it works. Also, Excel is very sensitive. When it wants “ (straight quotes), it does not want “ (smart quotes). If you are accustomed to word processing software that autocorrects and anticipates your needs, be forewarned that is not Excel. Excel is specific, accurate, and detailed, and expects the same from its users. Human beware! 

Convert between yards and meters 

Let’s start with a very simple calculation – converting between yards and meters. The conversion numbers are as follows: 

1 yard = 0.9144 meters 

1 meter = 1.0936133 yards 

I start by writing “Length Converter” in cell A1. I use “Merge and Center” to give me a nice title. Then I write “yards” and “meters” in cells A2 and B2.

Since I want to convert from yards to meters, in cell B3 I type 

=A3*0.9144 

then tap the <return> key. I’ve told Excel to multiply the number in cell A3 by 0.9144, the conversion factor from yards to meters. 

Type a number in cell A3 and tap <return>. Success! We can convert yards to meters. 

For a double-check, I type “1” in cell A3. I should get “0.9144” in cell B3.

Screenshot

Upon further investigation, I discovered Excel has a convert function already in it! Sweet! The formula is: 

=CONVERT(number,”yd”,”m”)

As an alternative, into cell B3 I can type the formula:

=CONVERT(A3,”yd”,”m”) 

Then hit <return>. I don’t even need to know or understand the conversion factor. 

If you are accustomed to translation software, you might expect to type a number into cell B3 and have Excel translate meters to yards in cell A3. Sadly, Excel does not work this way, unless you know how to program it in VBA. Since we would rather spin than write spreadsheets, let’s not go there. This is why we have friends who are professional engineers. (Thank you to my friend Larry Acuff for confirming that yes, you can upgrade this spreadsheet with VBA code.) 

Since I’d like to convert in either direction, I’ll add a few more cells to my spreadsheet. Into cell A5 I write 

=CONVERT(B5,”m”,”yd”) 

Now I can put a measurement in meters into cell B5 and get the yard equivalent in cell A5. 

You may notice rows 3 and 5 are not equivalent numbers. They are two completely separate equations. It would be nice to type either yards or meters into row 3 and have row 5 give me both answers. Can I do that? 

This is where we go a wee bit past Excel basics. Time to use the IF function. 

I delete all the data in cells A3, B3, A5, and B5. Bye, bye, formulas! 

Here’s my thought process. If I enter yards in cell A3, then I want cell A5 to copy that information. But if I left cell A3 blank and instead entered meters in cell B3, then I want Excel to convert those meters to yards. Similarly, I want cell B5 to have meters, whether copied directly from cell B3 or calculated from yards entered in cell A3. 

The magic formula for cell A5 is 

=IF(TRUE=ISBLANK(A3),CONVERT(B3,”m”,”yd”),A3) 

In human-speak that sentence means the following: If it is true that cell A3 is blank, then convert the number in cell B3 from meters to yards; otherwise, copy the number from cell A3. 

A rewrite of that formula goes into cell B5 

=IF(TRUE=ISBLANK(B3),CONVERT(A3,”yd”,”m”),B3) 

Give it a try. I know 6 yards is a little less than 6 meters. What happens when I put 6 in cell A3 and tap <return>? 

Cell B3 stays empty. But cell B5 now says 5.4864. That would be a little less than 6. The yard and meter equivalents are both on row 5. More success! 

Try clearing A3 and putting a number in B3 instead. I still get yards and meters, but this time the yards were converted and the meters were copied. 

Convert between ounces and grams 

Wouldn’t it be nice to convert ounces and grams the same way? 

I’ll repeat what I just did. I copy cells A1 through B5 and paste them over cells C1 through D5. I change the text to “Mass Converter,” “Ounces,” and “Grams.” Then I change the formulas. All I have to do is put “g” and “ozm” in place of “m” and “yd”. The formulas for C5 and D5 are as follows: 

=IF(TRUE=ISBLANK(C3),CONVERT(D3,”g”,”ozm”),C3) 

=IF(TRUE=ISBLANK(D3),CONVERT(C3,”ozm”,”g”),D3) 

Try playing with it. In my example, I know it is typical for me to spin 100 grams but measure length in yards. 

Grist 

Since I now have both length and weight on row 5, I could do another calculation – grist. 

Grist is a length of yarn per mass of yarn. It is usually expressed as yards per pound, but you could use meters per kilogram, or even bastard units such as yards per gram or meters per ounce. You could even try furlongs per stone or parsecs per solar mass. 😉 

For my spreadsheet, I’ll make a grist calculator that gives me yards per pound, yards per kilogram, meters per pound, and meters per kilogram. 

I write “Grist Calculator” in cell A6, then I merge and center cells A6 through D6. I write “yards” in cells A8 and B8, “meters” in cells C8 and D8, “pounds” in cells A10 and C10, and “kilograms” in cells B10 and D10. 

I want to copy the appropriate measurements into my grist calculator. My yards measurement is in cell A5. I enter 

=A5 

into cells A7 and B7. For meters I enter 

=B5 

into cells C7 and D7. 

I’ll need to do some conversions for pounds and kilograms. The pound cells are A9 and C9. I’m back to using the convert function: 

=CONVERT(C5,”ozm”,”lbm”) 

Finally, cells B9 and D9 convert grams to kilograms: 

=CONVERT(D5,”g”,”kg”) 

I have all the numbers where I need them. I just need to do some division. 

Cell A11 is going to be yards per pound. I enter 

=A7/A9 

That gives me a number representing yards per pound. If I copy and paste cell A11 into cells B11, C11, and D11, Excel thoughtfully realizes the division I want. I now have grist expressed four different ways in row 11. 

I could use row 12 to write “yds/lb,” “yds/kg,” “m/lb,” and “m/kg.” But if I want to be fancy, there are a couple things I can do. First, grist is rarely expressed in decimals. It is nearly always rounded to a whole number. Second, it would be nice to have the units in the box right next to the answer. I highlight A11. In the Format menu I choose “Cells…” or hit ⌘1. From “Number” I go to the bottom and choose “Custom”. In the box I type 

0 “yds/lb” 

and click <OK>. 

Now A11 gives me a whole number in yds/lb! 

Repeat this approach for cells B12, C12, and D12, giving each the correct units. 

Other notes 

At the end, I draw thick box borders around each section of the spreadsheet. I haven’t added background color to any cells, but I could do that if I wanted to clarify where to input data or to highlight the answers. 

To use this spreadsheet, I merely empty all the cells in row 3. 

Screenshot

There are some error messages. Excel does not like to divide by 0. And this spreadsheet is not idiot-proof. I should enter only one number in either A3 or B3, not both. Similarly, I enter only one number in C3 or D3, not both. 

There are ways to refine this spreadsheet using more advanced skills in Excel. For example, there are ways to hide the zeros or prevent Excel from attempting to divide by zero. But for most of us, saving this as a spinner’s spreadsheet or a grist calculator will work just fine. 

Jolie

Jolie Elder has explored a wide range of needle arts after learning to cross stitch at age four. Her cleverest unvention is a method for working stockinette-based laces reversibly. You can view her experiments at jolieaelder.blogspot.com and the YouTube channel Jolie knits. 

Shilo Weir
Karen

A Handspinner’s Go-Bag: The ultimate tool kit for wheel spinners on the move

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words and photos by Shilo Weir

I taught myself to spin in 2010. Since then, I have learned a lot through trial and error. One of the most memorable errors was attending my first in-person spinning class at Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival and feeling completely overwhelmed because, frankly, I was unprepared. About 45 minutes into a 4-hour class, my scotch tension brake cord broke, and I had no idea how I was going to continue. I muddled through and found a way to keep going, but this was the point I decided I needed to be more prepared.

It is easier to overcome spinning setbacks when you are working in your home studio – all your tools and supplies are there, and if a part needs to be replaced, generally there are items you can use as temporary substitutions. However, when you are a spinner on the go, preparation can go a long way. Over the years I have perfected my handspinner’s go-bag to be ready for just about anything when I am spinning out and about.

What is a go-bag?

Go-Bags are bags – or boxes, cases, etc. – that are always packed and ready to grab when it’s time to head out. You may have heard of go-bags in the context of natural disasters or emergency situations, but this isn’t the only time they serve a purpose. Many professionals, such as emergency responders, photographers, and military members, have go-bags so they can respond quickly.

Spinning emergencies aren’t life or death, but they can be frustrating and overwhelming. A well-stocked go-bag can help you respond to the unexpected. I fill my go-bag with essential items I can use to fix my wheel and a few personal comfort extras. Whether I am spinning in public for the afternoon or at a week-long retreat, my go-bag makes it easy to overcome issues that arise.

My ultimate goal in putting my go-bag together was to make sure I can fix problems quickly so the spinning doesn’t have to stop. The essentials for your on-the-go spinning come down to three categories: parts, tools, and personal comfort.

Parts

Every spinning wheel is a little different. Often, you can get back-up parts to carry with you just in case. For example, I carry spare drive bands and tension kits for most of my antique Louet travel wheels. They are often available through online retail stores and don’t take up much space.

Alternatively, there are some basic materials you may have around the house that can temporarily replace broken parts:

  • Yarn or thread: A sturdy cotton or nylon yarn or thread can replace a drive band in a pinch. The same holds true for replacing tension cords. It is an inexpensive alternative to maintaining a stock of manufacturer replacement parts. Cut a section at least twice as long as you think you might need and wrap it in a butterfly.
  • Fishing line: A light to medium weight fishing line can easily substitute for a tension brake, and a thicker, heavy weight line can replace a drive band. These packages can be stowed in the same way as cotton thread for easy transport.
  • Spare springs: Tension springs are often extension springs with loops at both ends so they can be attached between the wheel and the tension brake cord. Most hardware stores offer assortment packs of extension springs for less than $10, so finding the right one for your wheel is easy.
  • Elastic band: Many styles of elastic hair bands can substitute for a tension system spring that has lost its stretch or broken with age.

Tools

Even on a well-maintained spinning wheel, parts shake loose with use. Screws and bolts may need to be tightened, or wires and strings may need to be shortened. Essential tools for addressing these types of issues include the following:

  • Screwdriver: Choose a small screwdriver that matches the heads of the screws holding your wheel together (i.e., Phillips, slotted, Allen, hex, etc.).
  • Wrench: Some wheels have bolts, and a wrench can tighten those when loose.
  • Pliers: A pair of pliers can provide extra leverage when repairing or replacing springs, bands, tensioning systems, etc.
  • Scissors: It’s always a good idea to have something to cut with on hand when spinning. A small pair of scissors or other cutting device will also help with repairs if something goes wrong.

Personal comfort

If you have filled your go-bag with the essentials and kept things compact, here are some extras to consider throwing in:

  • Adhesive bandages: Sometimes you need to cover a spot on your hands that gets irritated by the friction of spinning and plying. I find this most helpful in the winter months when no amount of lotion helps keep my hands moisturized.
  • Writing utensil and a small notebook: Taking notes and tracking progress is always helpful and it’s nice to have these items at the ready.
  • Small ruler: Handy for measuring twists per inch and wraps per inch.
  • Snacks: I throw in a bar or small packet of trail mix. If I get hangry, all will be lost.
  • NSAIDs: I get achy – especially during longer outings. A small container of my preferred pain killer or anti-inflammatory is a great addition to my go-bag.

This may seem like a lot of stuff to put in one bag. The key to building a great handspinners go-bag is maximizing utility while minimizing the size of the items you pack. I can’t say enough about the value of the multitool for keeping things manageable. Multitools are compact and versatile and will help with getting all these items into a small- to medium-size cosmetic style bag. Most basic multitools include at least two sizes of screwdriver, a plier head, and a cutting implement or two. One of my favorite multi-purpose tools is my fancy pencil with built-in ruler and screwdriver.

And, as an aside, I try to carry a multitool with a built-in corkscrew and bottle opener because, well, you never know when you are going to be out of town with your spinning friends for a Rock Day celebration and the Airbnb isn’t well-equipped.

A well-stocked go-bag can save the day when you are a handspinner on the go. I have learned how to pack a compact set of tools and essentials to keep my spinning going in unusual situations. From the obvious to the unexpected, my little go-bag of tricks is pretty fantastic.

Shilo Weir is a spinner, knitter and fiber craft enthusiast who has shared a bit of herself with the community through her blog and podcast for the past 13 years. She retired from her first career and is still trying to decide what she wants to do when she grows up. Share her adventures on Instagram: @ForeverHandmade.

Guest Blogger

October Vlog with Jacey and Jillian

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Jillian starts by sharing the businesses who contributed tools and fiber to the Consistency issue (listed on Independent Spinner page and below) and then explores her favorite parts of this issue. Jacey shared several videos illustrating some of the techniques used in the issue. Jillian explains and shows her favorite spinning tools from HipStrings—WPI tools and twist angle gauges. Jacey asserts the importance of measuring yarn (such as twist angle) before it is finished so it is easier to re-create that yarn. Jacey gives a preview of the upcoming Winter issue—Head and Hands—and discusses plans for PLYAway 2022. Finally, Jillian and Jacey encourage everyone to submit ideas for writing for PLY, especially for experiment-type articles where you don’t have to know any answers beforehand and just take the readers through your experiment and conclusions. 

Specific information about PLYAway!  

PLY Away 2022 
April 19th-23rd, 2022 
Plyaway.com 

It’s happening, it’s really happening! After much stressing and debating, PA22 is on! For everyone’s safety, health, and feeling of security, we will be requiring all teachers, attendees, and vendors to be fully vaccinated. If there are changes in the Covid-19 situation, we will adapt and change as well. 

Because of all of this, there has been some juggling and shuffling. On October 18th, the full list of teachers was posted on the website. All the fiber-rific classes were revealed on October 20th. Registration will open Oct. 30th at 11am Central for everyone who was registered for PA20 (you’ll get an email and registration code) and on Oct. 31st at 11am Central, registration will be open to all. 

If you were set to vend at PA20, we’ll be reaching out about PA22. 

Finally, we’re always looking for fibery goodies for the PA goodie bags (we are thrilled to exchange bazaar ads for goodie bag items). Silent auction items and door prizes are also welcome! Everyone gets mentioned in the PA program too! Get in touch with Jess.cook@plymagazine.com for more details. 

Links mentioned in this quarter’s video:

Camaj Fiber Arts 

Akerworks  

Nancy’s Knit Knacks  

Cynthia Wood Spinner 

HipStrings  

Mielke’s Fiber Arts 

Brookmoore Creations  

Middle Brook Fiberworks 

Essential Fiber 

Jenkins Yarn Tools 

Wheels 

Daedalus Sparrow and Magpie 

HansenCrafts miniSpinner 

Majacraft Rose 

Louet S10 and S10C 

Ashford Wee Peggy 

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PLY Magazine believes that Black lives matter, as well as LBGTQI+ lives. Those most vulnerable and persecuted in our communities deserve our love and support. Please be good to each other.

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Guest Blogger

Book Review: Pastoral Song: A Farmer’s Journey

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book by James Rebanks

reviewed by Jillian Moreno

I’ve read this book twice, first when it was released in England last year, and just recently I listened to the audiobook. My first read told me it was important information, but I let myself be carried along, entranced by the storytelling.

The deeper information about farming and how farming has changed hooked me, subtly but deeply. I started reading more about farming and sustainability as articles came across my various feeds.

When I listened to the book for my second read, the importance of sustainably growing food and raising animals is all I heard.

James Rebanks is an excellent writer; he can put you squarely in a moment or a place. He currently farms and raises sheep and cows with his family. This land in the Lake District in the north of England has been in his family for 600 years, and he gives it the respect it deserves.

The book is divided into three sections.

Nostalgia presents the type of farming he remembers from his youth, how his grandparents farmed. It is rotational farming, working with and preserving the land.

Progress is the farming he saw in his teens and twenties, his father’s farm. The farming focused on increased production at the cost of everything else; the health of the land, the animals, the farmers, and the consumers can be damned as long as inexpensive food is on the shelves. This is the era of giant tractors, pesticides, growth hormones, and single crop farms. Much of the world still farms this way.

Utopia closes the book. This is the farming Rebanks and his family currently practice. It’s mostly back to the ways of his grandfather, with modern “progress” only where it makes sense to the bigger environmental picture.

He doesn’t sugarcoat how hard this type of farming is. He works with environmental agencies and receives subsidies to farm in favor of the land and animals, to restore and maintain the biodiversity of his land, but he still has to do work away from the farm to make ends meet.

This is the type of farming we should be striving toward, and this book gives me hope it can happen if we respect and focus on the well-being of the land, animals, the farmers, and our own health.

James Rebanks gives me hope for the future of farming and our environment.

Did you know we also have a monthly PLY newsletter? Sign up here!

PLY Magazine believes that Black lives matter, as well as LBGTQI+ lives. Those most vulnerable and persecuted in our communities deserve our love and support. Please be good to each other.