Mixing Things up for a Sweater
words and photos by: Johanna Carter
I always admire those who are able to spin mountains of yarn for a big project, ready to knit a wonderful sweater or cardigan. It is a satisfying feeling when you finish all that work, especially if you started with washing and combing the wool or even raising your own sheep.
Mixing spinning and knitting
The typical way to work through a larger project is to spin all the singles first and ply them in a particular order so you get the yarn even throughout the whole project. I don’t have so many bobbins, but my bigger problem is that I am quite impatient and want to get on with knitting once I have an idea. And normally, my brain is full of ideas for fibre work and the limit is the time, as I am a musician and teacher. I can’t sit at the spinning wheel for a long time if I’m not on holiday, so during the school year I mostly knit, and during the holidays I can dye, spin, use my drum carder, and do lots of fibre work. The only time I was able to produce bigger quantities of yarn before I knitted them up was during the Tour de Fleece in the two years during the pandemic, when we did not go on holiday at the beginning of July.
I like to finish knitting one big project like a sweater or cardigan before I start the next one, or at least until I can’t carry it in my bag easily anymore, so I have an excuse to begin the next one. Sometimes it is good to have a second project on the go – I call it mindless knitting, where I don’t have to look very much – which I can keep my hands busy during Zoom or other meetings, which helps me listen.
Mixing colours and fibres
Usually I dye my yarn with plants which I collect in the woods or get from garden flowers. I also use cochineal and indigo, which I buy, to get lots of different colours. I really love the greens and blues I get from dyeing with indigo. I have lots of dyed wool, and all those colours give me inspiration for further projects.
Blending the wool on the drum carder I can get even more shades. I like to blend with fibres like silk, alpaca, or plant fibres, and I love sari silk, to get those little bits of colour in my yarn.
When I have an idea for the next sweater, I start carding, and then I can begin to spin. Once I have spun enough yarn – say, for one day – I cast on and start knitting, usually top down, so I don’t have to decide too much in advance about length and width.
When I spin on my wheel, I have to sit at home, but while spinning I can read a book or talk to others during online meetings. I also like to spin on my spindles, and that works on a walk, or a museum visit. I take them on holiday as they don’t need much space, and when I spin for a lace shawl, I don’t even need much wool either. At home there are spindles all over the place; I can spin when I am waiting for the kettle to boil, when the computer is slow, when I am cooking. Like that I can make good use of a short time and the yarn still grows.
I can take my knitting almost everywhere, which is why I don’t want to wait to get started until I have spun all the yarn for a whole sweater. I knit at home, on the bus or train. The only thing I have to make sure of is to be one step ahead with the yarn.
I love to knit Fair Isle sweaters. My favourite method is to use only one bobbin, which I don’t even fill, because I need smaller quantities of lots of colours. Then I wind a ply ball and ply it on itself. For that I put my thumb through the ball, so I can tension the two singles with my fingers and they don’t get tangled, as long as my thumb (or a cardboard roll or a pencil) stays in the middle. I don’t have any leftovers from plying, and it is quick when I suddenly need more yarn.
I have never had problems with the yarn not being consistent enough throughout a project. I just know what yarn I want and my fingers seem to remember what to do. I am sure it is good advice to have a little card tied to the spinning wheel with a bit of the singles you are aiming for, so you can check and make sure you are spinning a consistent yarn.
Mixing breeds
There are so many different breeds, but some of my favourites are Shetland, BFL, and Jämtland – a Swedish breed. After dyeing them, I often forget what I have used, so when I do a new project it often turns out that I have used different breeds and fibres just to get the right colour. For the Fair Isle knitting I want to juggle lots of colours, which is more important to me than making a sweater out of only one breed.
Recently I made a pullover for my husband using about 12 different breeds and colours, even mixing short and long draw. For me it was a breed experiment and a way to use up lots of smaller quantities of wool I had in my stash. For that sweater I used combed top without blending.

Mixing in knitting during the spinning process is a wonderful way for a spinner to avoid being overwhelmed during a sweater project.
My feeling is that some people don’t dare to start spinning for a bigger project because they get overwhelmed by the quantity they have to spin and then all the knitting there is to do, especially when you want to spin the yarn entirely on spindles. Mixing the spinning and knitting for the same project is more interesting; you get more variety and more freedom to choose what you want to do next as long as you don’t run out of yarn. It breaks the project down into smaller, less daunting parts. The only thing you might want to plan is to have enough fibre at the start, but even that is not necessary, there is always a sheep growing more wool.
A Handspinner’s Go-Bag: The ultimate tool kit for wheel spinners on the move
words and photos by Shilo Weir
I taught myself to spin in 2010. Since then, I have learned a lot through trial and error. One of the most memorable errors was attending my first in-person spinning class at Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival and feeling completely overwhelmed because, frankly, I was unprepared. About 45 minutes into a 4-hour class, my scotch tension brake cord broke, and I had no idea how I was going to continue. I muddled through and found a way to keep going, but this was the point I decided I needed to be more prepared.
It is easier to overcome spinning setbacks when you are working in your home studio – all your tools and supplies are there, and if a part needs to be replaced, generally there are items you can use as temporary substitutions. However, when you are a spinner on the go, preparation can go a long way. Over the years I have perfected my handspinner’s go-bag to be ready for just about anything when I am spinning out and about.
What is a go-bag?

Go-Bags are bags – or boxes, cases, etc. – that are always packed and ready to grab when it’s time to head out. You may have heard of go-bags in the context of natural disasters or emergency situations, but this isn’t the only time they serve a purpose. Many professionals, such as emergency responders, photographers, and military members, have go-bags so they can respond quickly.
Spinning emergencies aren’t life or death, but they can be frustrating and overwhelming. A well-stocked go-bag can help you respond to the unexpected. I fill my go-bag with essential items I can use to fix my wheel and a few personal comfort extras. Whether I am spinning in public for the afternoon or at a week-long retreat, my go-bag makes it easy to overcome issues that arise.
My ultimate goal in putting my go-bag together was to make sure I can fix problems quickly so the spinning doesn’t have to stop. The essentials for your on-the-go spinning come down to three categories: parts, tools, and personal comfort.
Parts
Every spinning wheel is a little different. Often, you can get back-up parts to carry with you just in case. For example, I carry spare drive bands and tension kits for most of my antique Louet travel wheels. They are often available through online retail stores and don’t take up much space.
Alternatively, there are some basic materials you may have around the house that can temporarily replace broken parts:
- Yarn or thread: A sturdy cotton or nylon yarn or thread can replace a drive band in a pinch. The same holds true for replacing tension cords. It is an inexpensive alternative to maintaining a stock of manufacturer replacement parts. Cut a section at least twice as long as you think you might need and wrap it in a butterfly.
- Fishing line: A light to medium weight fishing line can easily substitute for a tension brake, and a thicker, heavy weight line can replace a drive band. These packages can be stowed in the same way as cotton thread for easy transport.

- Spare springs: Tension springs are often extension springs with loops at both ends so they can be attached between the wheel and the tension brake cord. Most hardware stores offer assortment packs of extension springs for less than $10, so finding the right one for your wheel is easy.
- Elastic band: Many styles of elastic hair bands can substitute for a tension system spring that has lost its stretch or broken with age.
Tools
Even on a well-maintained spinning wheel, parts shake loose with use. Screws and bolts may need to be tightened, or wires and strings may need to be shortened. Essential tools for addressing these types of issues include the following:
- Screwdriver: Choose a small screwdriver that matches the heads of the screws holding your wheel together (i.e., Phillips, slotted, Allen, hex, etc.).
- Wrench: Some wheels have bolts, and a wrench can tighten those when loose.
- Pliers: A pair of pliers can provide extra leverage when repairing or replacing springs, bands, tensioning systems, etc.
- Scissors: It’s always a good idea to have something to cut with on hand when spinning. A small pair of scissors or other cutting device will also help with repairs if something goes wrong.

Personal comfort
If you have filled your go-bag with the essentials and kept things compact, here are some extras to consider throwing in:
- Adhesive bandages: Sometimes you need to cover a spot on your hands that gets irritated by the friction of spinning and plying. I find this most helpful in the winter months when no amount of lotion helps keep my hands moisturized.
- Writing utensil and a small notebook: Taking notes and tracking progress is always helpful and it’s nice to have these items at the ready.
- Small ruler: Handy for measuring twists per inch and wraps per inch.
- Snacks: I throw in a bar or small packet of trail mix. If I get hangry, all will be lost.
- NSAIDs: I get achy – especially during longer outings. A small container of my preferred pain killer or anti-inflammatory is a great addition to my go-bag.

This may seem like a lot of stuff to put in one bag. The key to building a great handspinners go-bag is maximizing utility while minimizing the size of the items you pack. I can’t say enough about the value of the multitool for keeping things manageable. Multitools are compact and versatile and will help with getting all these items into a small- to medium-size cosmetic style bag. Most basic multitools include at least two sizes of screwdriver, a plier head, and a cutting implement or two. One of my favorite multi-purpose tools is my fancy pencil with built-in ruler and screwdriver.
And, as an aside, I try to carry a multitool with a built-in corkscrew and bottle opener because, well, you never know when you are going to be out of town with your spinning friends for a Rock Day celebration and the Airbnb isn’t well-equipped.

A well-stocked go-bag can save the day when you are a handspinner on the go. I have learned how to pack a compact set of tools and essentials to keep my spinning going in unusual situations. From the obvious to the unexpected, my little go-bag of tricks is pretty fantastic.


Shilo Weir is a spinner, knitter and fiber craft enthusiast who has shared a bit of herself with the community through her blog and podcast for the past 13 years. She retired from her first career and is still trying to decide what she wants to do when she grows up. Share her adventures on Instagram: @ForeverHandmade.
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