Mixing Things up for a Sweater

words and photos by: Johanna Carter

I always admire those who are able to spin mountains of yarn for a big project, ready to knit a wonderful sweater or cardigan. It is a satisfying feeling when you finish all that work, especially if you started with washing and combing the wool or even raising your own sheep.

Mixing spinning and knitting

The typical way to work through a larger project is to spin all the singles first and ply them in a particular order so you get the yarn even throughout the whole project. I don’t have so many bobbins, but my bigger problem is that I am quite impatient and want to get on with knitting once I have an idea. And normally, my brain is full of ideas for fibre work and the limit is the time, as I am a musician and teacher. I can’t sit at the spinning wheel for a long time if I’m not on holiday, so during the school year I mostly knit, and during the holidays I can dye, spin, use my drum carder, and do lots of fibre work. The only time I was able to produce bigger quantities of yarn before I knitted them up was during the Tour de Fleece in the two years during the pandemic, when we did not go on holiday at the beginning of July.

A highly photogenic collection of naturally dyed fibres.

I like to finish knitting one big project like a sweater or cardigan before I start the next one, or at least until I can’t carry it in my bag easily anymore, so I have an excuse to begin the next one. Sometimes it is good to have a second project on the go – I call it mindless knitting, where I don’t have to look very much – which I can keep my hands busy during Zoom or other meetings, which helps me listen.

Mixing colours and fibres

Usually I dye my yarn with plants which I collect in the woods or get from garden flowers. I also use cochineal and indigo, which I buy, to get lots of different colours. I really love the greens and blues I get from dyeing with indigo. I have lots of dyed wool, and all those colours give me inspiration for further projects.

Beautiful greens and blues dyed by the author using indigo and other natural dyes.

Blending the wool on the drum carder I can get even more shades. I like to blend with fibres like silk, alpaca, or plant fibres, and I love sari silk, to get those little bits of colour in my yarn.

Fibres of different types and colours are blended on a drum carder for elegant results.

When I have an idea for the next sweater, I start carding, and then I can begin to spin. Once I have spun enough yarn – say, for one day – I cast on and start knitting, usually top down, so I don’t have to decide too much in advance about length and width.

An idea for the author’s next sweater in the gathering stages.

When I spin on my wheel, I have to sit at home, but while spinning I can read a book or talk to others during online meetings. I also like to spin on my spindles, and that works on a walk, or a museum visit. I take them on holiday as they don’t need much space, and when I spin for a lace shawl, I don’t even need much wool either. At home there are spindles all over the place; I can spin when I am waiting for the kettle to boil, when the computer is slow, when I am cooking. Like that I can make good use of a short time and the yarn still grows.

Knitting as soon as the yarn is spun helps the author complete sweater projects in a timely manner.

I can take my knitting almost everywhere, which is why I don’t want to wait to get started until I have spun all the yarn for a whole sweater. I knit at home, on the bus or train. The only thing I have to make sure of is to be one step ahead with the yarn.

I love to knit Fair Isle sweaters. My favourite method is to use only one bobbin, which I don’t even fill, because I need smaller quantities of lots of colours. Then I wind a ply ball and ply it on itself. For that I put my thumb through the ball, so I can tension the two singles with my fingers and they don’t get tangled, as long as my thumb (or a cardboard roll or a pencil) stays in the middle. I don’t have any leftovers from plying, and it is quick when I suddenly need more yarn.

Several charming sweaters dyed, spun, and knit by the author.

I have never had problems with the yarn not being consistent enough throughout a project. I just know what yarn I want and my fingers seem to remember what to do. I am sure it is good advice to have a little card tied to the spinning wheel with a bit of the singles you are aiming for, so you can check and make sure you are spinning a consistent yarn.

Mixing breeds

There are so many different breeds, but some of my favourites are Shetland, BFL, and Jämtland – a Swedish breed. After dyeing them, I often forget what I have used, so when I do a new project it often turns out that I have used different breeds and fibres just to get the right colour. For the Fair Isle knitting I want to juggle lots of colours, which is more important to me than making a sweater out of only one breed.

Recently I made a pullover for my husband using about 12 different breeds and colours, even mixing short and long draw. For me it was a breed experiment and a way to use up lots of smaller quantities of wool I had in my stash. For that sweater I used combed top without blending.

Mixing in knitting during the spinning process is a wonderful way for a spinner to avoid being overwhelmed during a sweater project.

My feeling is that some people don’t dare to start spinning for a bigger project because they get overwhelmed by the quantity they have to spin and then all the knitting there is to do, especially when you want to spin the yarn entirely on spindles. Mixing the spinning and knitting for the same project is more interesting; you get more variety and more freedom to choose what you want to do next as long as you don’t run out of yarn. It breaks the project down into smaller, less daunting parts. The only thing you might want to plan is to have enough fibre at the start, but even that is not necessary, there is always a sheep growing more wool.

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Experiments in Joy

by Christina Socorro Yovovich

Late May in 2023 found me gleefully bent over steaming metal pots on my back patio in the early morning. I was scouring my first fleece. I didn’t know what I was doing. I’d started knitting in late January after a thirty-year hiatus. I’d started noodling around with a drop spindle in February. In April a friend had offered to loan me her unused Majacraft Suzie Pro and I’d accepted. Somewhere in there I’d decided to dive all the way down the fiber rabbit hole and process a sheep’s fleece. 

I knew I didn’t know what I was doing. I’d done some reading online. I’d gotten a tetanus shot. But I didn’t have anyone to offer in-person advice, and I knew I could use some. Playing with the scouring pots had everything to do with a promise I had made myself when the year turned. 

I’d told myself 2023 was going to be the Year of Chasing Joy. No worrying about if I was being silly. No worrying about shoulds. No worrying about what other people thought of me. I was going to pursue joy in the form of creative play by following my heart. And from the moment I felt the wool moving through my fingers as I re-learned how to knit, that joy largely came in the form of fiber arts. 

It took some work to find that local Shetland fleece. Lots of searching online and sending out emails. But eventually I found a local shepherd willing to sell me this wonder. I bought it from her at a fiber festival, brought it home, unrolled it on my back patio, and tried to guess which parts of it had belonged to which bits of the sheep. I separated it into a few bundles and set two of them to soak in my large, covered metal scouring pots overnight. 

 

The next morning, as the sun rose, I set myself to scouring. I hauled hot water from the kitchen sink out to the patio. I added what I hoped was the right amount of Unicorn Power Scour. I felt like a sailor trying to navigate by the stars after reading a couple pages on the internet. Would I felt the wool? Would I get it clean enough? Would I manage to comb it after it dried? What the heck was I doing?! 

It was glorious. I giggled to myself all that morning. It had hit me sometime that spring, at age forty-nine – when was the last time I’d done something I didn’t know how to do? I learned, as I struggled first with the spindle and then with the borrowed wheel, that I dearly loved doing things I didn’t know how to do. Especially things that were low stakes in the moment. Nobody but me cared if I produced usable yarn. It was play. Experimentation. I was trying things to see what would happen. 

What happened the morning I scoured wool is that eventually I carefully laid some of the wet wool over a screen on a drying rack and I left it, confident the New Mexico sun would do its job quickly. In the afternoon, I checked on it. It was dry! Sort of fluffy! Definitely not felted. And… as I looked closely, I saw something. Thousands of somethings, or at least hundreds. Somethings out of a replica of the movie Aliens. I saw what must be tiny eggs nestled in the fiber, and out of many of them were the heads of little white grubs, bursting forth. They weren’t moving. Probably some, or several, parts of the scouring process had killed them. But what about the tiny eggs without emerging grubs? What, exactly, was I supposed to do? 

I went to the internet and asked a spinning chat group for guidance. The response was unanimous: Do NOT take that wool into the house. Bin it. Or use it as mulch in the yard. Do not even try to spin it. I looked again at my horror show of a scoured fleece. All that work and time and even a tetanus shot. All those pots of water hauled outside. 

All that fun. I started to laugh. All this work for wool full of grubs, and it was hilarious. When was the last time I’d worked so long for something so disastrous? And when was the last time I’d felt so much glee in the space of a season? In one sense, my great scouring experiment had failed. But in another, it was part of a long series of things that were giving me life. 

I’ve scoured wool more successfully since  – though not large amounts, because my bad knees make hauling all that water tricky. I’ve kept on learning more about knitting and spinning. I have a beautiful Schacht-Reeves now that lives in the house with what is now my Majacraft. Always, I experiment. To become a better fiber artist is one reason. But more than that, to become a more joyful human. 

I live with bipolar and PTSD and in much of my adulthood, joy was difficult for me to access. That isn’t a problem anymore. I have my joy every day, reliable as the sun. But also, as tricksy as the wind. If I feel myself becoming too sure of myself, I experiment. Try a new thing. Recently, I took a nålbinding workshop. Now I’m learning to weave on an inkle loom. I’ve started sketching daily with fountain pens. I’m not necessarily good at all these things, definitely not at first. But the play is in the experimenting and the joy lives there too. 

It’s 2026 now and I no longer need to label this the Year of Chasing Joy. I could label my life that way, maybe. I have a life of chasing joy. That doesn’t mean I don’t face the hard things. I’ve been doing trauma work this past year that goes beyond anything I once thought myself capable of. But beside the hard stuff is play, experiments, joy. It has been years since I was listless and bored. Perhaps that chorus of grubs bursting forth were a reminder to celebrate my path – the ugly, the ridiculous, and the joyous all bundled together. 


Christina Socorro Yovovich is a Latina diagnosed by professionals with bipolar and PTSD and by herself as autistic and ADHD. When she isn’t parenting, writing memoir, or making art, she writes fundraising copy for progressive organizations. You can find her at christinasocorroyovovich.com or as Desert Agave Fiber Arts on YouTube. 

Ask Jillian: Playing with Fractal Spinning

Do you ever use the fractal style spinning for anything else besides a single braid? 

~Kate, Taos, New Mexico 

Hi Kate! I do! I first read about fractal spinning in an article by Janel Laidman way back in 2007. I like to use the technique to break up hard or clear striping in braids that are dyed with a pattern, but I also use it to create more marling in other yarns. 

Here’s an example of a fractal spin with a single braid dyed to stripe. 

I split a braid in two lengthwise and spun one half on a bobbin. I divided the other half into four parts lengthwise and spun them one after the other on a second bobbin. Then I plied them together. 

Each time a braid is stripped narrower, each color is shortened. By plying different-sized divisions together, I’m combining long and short color runs within a colorway. This fractures the stripes so that the colors meet up in some spots, marl in some spots, and meet then marl in some spots. The difference between a matching ply and a fractal ply looks like this: 

I love the look of the fractal ply because it has motion and visual texture and it’s just more exciting to me than simple stripes. Of course you can play with the numbers of divisions and the order of the colors and the number of plies. It provides endless fun. 

I use a fractal-style division anytime I want colors more mixed up. The results are usually pretty subtle, but I like them. 

I did it when I combined these two braids: 

I used the darker braid as the long color and spun it onto one bobbin. I divided the lighter braid into four pieces and spun them in succession on another bobbin, then plied. 

It ended up looking like this: 

Here’s a comparison between one ply of each: both long color runs (on the left) and the fractal division (on the right).  

Like I said, it’s subtle, but I like how the lighter colors seem sprinkled or more dispersed over the darker color braid as it rolls through its color pattern in the fractal division. The 2-ply with equal amounts of color runs looks more like two colorways competing for my attention. 

So play with that fractal-style division. You’ll make amazing and sometimes surprising yarns. My next fractal play is going to be combining fractal division with a cable structure. 


Want Jillian or Jacey to take a stab at your question? Tell us what you want to know: 

Wool Mill Feature: Ewethful Fiber Farm and Mill

 by Kira Dulaney 

One of the many pleasures of spinning is searching out different breeds of sheep and fiber blends to try. As a bonus, heading down that path means supporting smaller ranches raising heritage breeds and, if you choose not to start with raw fleece, sourcing fiber from small wool mills. I love visiting wool mills and learning what each one specializes in, then spreading the word far and wide to help connect the mills with both fiber producers and spinners. Recently I spent some time with owner Kim Biegler of Ewethful Fiber Farm and Mill in Halsey, Oregon, a rural community just an hour and a half south of Portland.  

Ewethful is a mini mill using equipment that can turn out small batches, specializing in making roving from local sheep and alpaca. Incoming fiber is scoured, air-dried, sometimes dyed, picked, and carded, and occasionally blended. The picker, carder, and draw frame are all Belfast Mini Mill machinery manufactured in Canada. Kim operates and maintains all of the machinery as the sole employee. 

Kim married into a farming family in the “grass seed capital of the world” in rural Oregon, where along with husband Mitch she also raises Shetland and BFL/East Friesian–cross sheep, alpaca, a Pygora goat, and myriad non-fiber-bearing animals. The mill itself has just one four-legged inhabitant, a calico cat named Wish who eagerly greets guests on the monthly open mill days.  

Running a fiber mill is hard work, and I respect that Kim has narrowed the scope of Ewethful to what both she and her equipment are happiest doing. Since the mill’s start in 2016, she’s pared down to focus on creating loose roving perfect for woolen spinning, no longer taking custom orders or spinning yarn. Wool from Kim’s own flock is represented along with fiber from other Pacific Northwest ranches. She shops for fleece at fiber festivals, then contacts ranchers for larger purchases, and sometimes ranchers hear of the mill through word of mouth.  

Kim’s carder works well with mid-grade alpaca and heritage breeds of wool, both of which are plentiful in the area. Although it can handle fine wools if they’re high-quality coated fleece, Kim prefers to stick with 20+ micron fiber. Some fibers get dyed before carding, others are blended on the draw frame afterward, and many are left in natural colors. On my visit, I saw Romney in the drying cabinet, turquoise-dyed Clun Forest on the carder, and containers of freshly carded roving including Romney, Jacob, and an intriguing blend of Romney, silk, and camel. In the shop there was also roving from Shetland, alpaca, Shetland/mohair, Shetland/silk, and Shetland/alpaca. I spun up some of Kim’s own Shetland wool and it was a dreamy fluffy roving that was a breeze to draft. Availability varies quite a bit as different fleeces come into the mill and the finished roving gets snapped up by Patreon supporters, then newsletter subscribers, and finally folks browsing the website or visiting the mill shop.  

Once a month, Kim hosts a Mill Shop Day and many people come from the surrounding area, some hanging out all day long and even setting up an informal potluck of snacks and drinks. Visitors get to tour the mill, browse the store, and sit crafting and chatting around a large table. Even though the shop is open just once a month, it’s stocked with fiber tools including niddy noddies, knitting needles, hand-carved crochet hooks, and dye. Yarns from small U.S. mills satisfy those who aren’t spinners yet, and the offerings are rounded out with soaps, ceramics, project bags, and candles from local makers. Most of these are also available online along with the mill’s roving. There are spinning wheels and looms throughout the shop, some for sale and others awaiting refurbishing. 

A great way to see behind the scenes at the mill and hear about the current fibers in process is to watch Kim’s vlog All the Wool on YouTube. A recent video followed Shetland wool from a cold soak into the washing machine and later the drying cabinet, while earlier batches went through the picker and carder. The video includes a cameo by the two Kunekune pigs on the farm, and a reminder that Kim’s community is inclusive of fiber lovers of all identities and backgrounds. The Ewethful website also has helpful blog articles, downloadable videos, and online courses for spinners to watch at their own pace.  

At a time when wool mill closure announcements keep rolling in and tariffs are affecting imported products, it’s important to support our U.S. wool mills of all sizes. That support extends to the ranches that produce the fiber, rare and heritage breeds of fiber-bearing animals, and all the hard-working people involved along the way. I’ll keep sharing my visits with the PLY community, and I encourage you to seek out your local wool mills or chat with those you see at fiber festivals.  

Check out Ewethful on their website: https://www.ewethfulfiberfarm.com/  


A lifelong crafter, Kira Dulaney has been teaching fiber arts classes since 2002 and travels across the country to share skills in knitting, crochet, embroidery, spinning, weaving, mending, and more. Kira designs knitting and crochet patterns, teaches, and hosts crafty event in the San Francisco Bay Area.