Are you ready for this? The latest guild episode is coming! I repeat, the latest guild episode is coming!
Saturday (February 15, 2025) we reveal the 14th (and final) episode for season 1 of the PLY Spinners guild! It rounds out a season full of foundational spinning episodes taught by some of the best spinners and spinning teachers around. And boy, is it a doozy! Featuring several greats in our community—Stephenie Gaustad, Michelle Boyd, Roy Clemes, and Jacey Boggs Faulkner—this episode is a wrap of of the season with some (older) never-before-seen segments that were too good not to share, and some (newer) segments on small fiber processing tools and yarn handling tools. There’s some stuff on oiling and leaders, and a great, giant segment on getting started spinning (because Jacey didn’t want anyone to go any further without having a good handle on the basics). So if you just need a refresher, this baby should get you up to speed. Finally it also includes a segment on how to use the guild—a segment you can (and should) watch on YouTube. You won’t want to miss out.
If you’d like to learn more from your favorite fiber instructors, make sure your membership is active! Each month is jam packed with new instructional videos and virtual spin-ins. Membership is cumulative, meaning you get access not only to the current episode, but also to every previous episode and recorded spin-in as well.
New Monthly Building Skills Spin-in
The PLY Spinners Guild (PSG) hosts three 90 minute spin-ins every month:
On the first Sunday of every month, guild members meet and spin at 5 p.m. Pacific.
On the third Sunday of every month, guild members meet and spin at 10 a.m. Pacific.
However, those spin-ins can get more technical and in-depth than some spinners are ready for or comfortable with. In response, we’re launching a new monthly spin-in! T
he Building Skills Spin-in will start in March and will take place at 5 p.m. Pacific on the third Thursday on each month.
The first one will be on March 20. Just like all the PSG spin-ins, guild members will get a spin-in link the week before the spin-in and it’s always posted in the PSG forums.
The guild is priced at $85/year or $12/month. This is a very good deal for the amount of information and community you will get, especially since new video lessons are added every six weeks! This fee allows us to pay for the substantial hosting required by so many high-def videos and the charge per member to access the site, along with fairly compensating the teachers, editors, and everyone involved in making the guild work.
If you aren’t already a member, we think you’d definitely enjoy it!
The PLY Spinners Guild is a space for spinners at all levels of spinning. We are an inclusive and diverse community that embraces all spinners and welcomes everyone to create a brave space to question, challenge, and support one another. We strongly believe that the more diverse our community is, the stronger our community is. Our core beliefs of kindness, diversity, and inclusivity inform everything we do. Racism, sexism, and other forms of oppression will not be tolerated. We reserve the right to remove anyone who meaningfully and purposefully disrupts the community or makes other members feel unsafe.
I’ve been learning so much from your reels on Instagram. Recently you did one describing what the different whorls do to the yarn you’re spinning. You show one yarn and then change the whorl to a bigger one and show the other yarn, but you don’t say which of the two plyback samples is the right one. I’m a new spinner and just can’t figure out how much twist is too much or not enough. ~Celena
Hi Celena,
I messaged you on Instagram, but I wanted to dig a little deeper and give this a bigger audience since I know that lots of people struggle with these same questions. I’m including a link to the reel that you’re talking about in case others want to check it out for reference [add links to IG, YT]. In the 3-minute video, I spin a little bit of a yarn on the smallest whorl of my wheel (in this case it’s a Schacht Ladybug), show the plyback, then change to the bigger whorl, spin a bit more yarn, and show the two plybacks side by side.
For each of the two plybacks I did my best to keep everything the same except for changing the whorl on the wheel.
I drafted the same number of fibers (roughly, because I’m not magic) for each draft.
I drafted the same distance for each draft.
I drafted one draft each time I treadled so we could be sure the differing twist amounts was the result of the whorl change and not speedy feet or hands.
Changing whorls
When I changed the whorl size from smaller to bigger I changed the amount of twist going into my yarn. With the smaller whorl in action, my yarn got a certain amount of twist. When I switched to the bigger pulley, my yarn got less twist. That’s really what I wanted to demonstrate – that you don’t have to know the ratios of your wheel to know what they do relative to each other. I have lots of wheels, and to be honest, I don’t know what the actual ratios are on most of them. If I want to know the real numbers I either have to run a test or look them up online.
However, because I know what the different size whorls do, I can make decisions about which whorl groove I want to use. And if the groove I choose doesn’t make the yarn I want, I change it to a bigger or smaller groove based on what change I want. What will help you, even if you don’t know the ratios, is to know what they mean relative to each other:
Bigger whorl = less twist
Smaller whorl = more twist
Which is right?
But what you’re asking is something else, I think. You’re asking which of those two plybacks is the right one, which one you should see and say “yes, that’s the yarn I want!” And here is where you might not like my answer – it depends. It really does! I didn’t tell you which one was right because they’re both right for something and they’re both wrong for something else.
If there was just one type of yarn that was “right,” most of us wouldn’t spend so much time spinning, right? We’d go buy the one “right” type of yarn at the store and call it done. But the magic about spinning is that there’s a gazillion kinds of yarn you can spin, and each of them is going to be good for something and bad for something else.
Comparing the yarns
Okay, first know that the two plybacks I spun in the video are very similar; the only difference is a little more or a little less twist. Keep in mind that the comparisons I’m about to make about these two yarns would get more dramatic and extreme if we were to add even more (or less) twist to them.
The one with less twist (bigger whorl, left yarn in the video)
Feels a tad bit fluffier: there’s more air in it since the extra twist I added to the other one isn’t there to bundle it down so tight
Looks a little thicker, again, since it didn’t get bundled down so much with twist
Is loftier: less twist means more air and more air means more loft
Might abrade or pill faster
Would show less stitch definition in knitting
The one with more twist (smaller whorl, right yarn in the video)
Feels a little firmer: the more twist you add, the firmer the yarn gets
Looks a tad thinner: as you add twist your yarn gets thinner (even though it has the same actual number of fibers)
Is denser: with each bit of twist you bundle the fibers down tighter, replacing the space where air was with tightly bundled fibers
Will hold up a little better over time; the extra twist will help it stand up to abrasion so it’ll be less likely to pill
Would show more stitch definition in knitting
To know which one of the two plybacks is the right one, we’d need more information.
What craft will the yarn be used for? Knitting, crochet, weaving, something else?
What kind of project? You’ll want different things from a yarn that’s going to be a hat than you’ll want from one that’s destined to be socks.
What is the goal of the project? To keep you warm, to drape down your back? To protect your hands? To look stunning and fill your non-spinner friends with awe and envy?
Let’s assume I want to knit. As a knitter, these two yarns are similar enough that they’d both work for many of the same projects, but those projects would turn out a bit differently. If I only had these two yarns to choose from, I might think through it like this:
If I wanted to knit a pair of mitts
I’d choose the one with more twist. Mostly because the one with more twist still isn’t what anyone would call a high-twist yarn, it’s still soft and airy (just not as soft and airy as the other one), so it would make fabric that was warm. The extra bit of twist would help it stand up to the abrasion that gloves/mitts are often subjected to.
If I wanted to knit a warm, squishy hat
I’d choose the one with less twist and more air. I’m a naturally cold person, so warm hats help keep my head toasty. The airier the yarn, the more warm air trapped in the fabric, the warmer my head. Since heads encounter less abrasion than hands, I’m not too worried that the yarn has a little less protective twist.
If I want to knit a sweater
I’d probably want to do a test swatch of each. A sweater is a bigger time investment, and I want to make sure I know how the yarn is going to act. Will the lighter-twist yarn create the lofty and warm sweater of my dreams? Maybe, but will it pill and abrade immediately? I don’t know. Will the higher-twist yarn feel too hard and dense as a sweater? Or will it make my planned cables pop and sing? Probably, but again, I won’t know until I sample.
If I want to knit a pair of socks
I’d spin another yarn but on a much smaller whorl. Socks need more twist than either of these yarns have, a little more in the singles and quite a bit more in the ply.
More than just twist
And all of these are just decisions I’m making about the twist of the yarn. There are so many other decisions we could be talking about. Is wool the right fiber for the project I’m envisioning? If it is, is this the right breed? Is there another fiber prep that would give me more of the qualities I want? What about the draft? Should I let some twist between my hands while doing a short forward draft? Would a long draw be more suitable? Is this the ply structure I want or should I explore a 3-ply, 4-ply, cable, or crepe? Should I ply to balance or add extra ply-twist? And on and on. . .
Don’t stress
That might all sound overwhelming, like, how will you ever decide about everything? Don’t worry, you don’t have to right now. Just the fact that we have all those choices is why it’s magical to be a spinner – you can make exactly the yarn you want. No yarn is wrong, though it might be wrong for a specific project or use. So experiment, spin all the yarns, figure out what you like and don’t like, trust yourself, and most of all, enjoy the process.
Don’t let the fact that you’re never going to know everything about spinning stress you out; instead, relish the fact that you’re never going to run out of things to learn and spin and you’re definitely never going to be bored.
Want Jacey or Jillian to take a stab at your question? Tell us what you want to know:
https://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/1-wheels-with-Jacey-thumb-scaled.jpg19202560Meagan Condonhttps://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/plylogo-condensed-pnk-300x164.pngMeagan Condon2025-02-11 09:00:002025-02-06 14:34:34Ask Jacey: How Much Twist is Right?
While the Tension issue of PLY is already in the works (and it looks like another great one!) we are looking for quality related posts for the blog! Did you have an idea you didn’t submit? Or did you miss the submission window?
The blog process is much simpler than the magazine process (which involves contracts and samples sent in, photographs, tech editing, etc.) Instead, you’ll need to send your own photos, and your post will go through a copy edit but no other part of the magazine article process. If your blog submission is accepted and published, we’ll send you a $50 honorarium via PayPal.
Please submit your blog post proposal by March 15, 2025. If your post proposal is accepted, we’ll need your words and photos by May 1, 2025. We’ll be posting the Tension posts on the blog in June, July, and August 2025.
Find the mood board below! (Note: We’ve changed the colors for the issue from the ones on this mood board to something more “summery” so don’t feel limited to the colors here.)
PLY Summer 2025 – Tension (Blog posts)
Tension is one of those elements we use all the time while we spin. Think about all the ways tension figures into and impacts your spinning. We want to hear about all of them!
Wheel tension and wheel systems: how do they work and which works best for what type of yarn? Is there a reason spinners might like this one over that one? How about drive bands and brake bands? How often should you change them, and what considerations go into the types of materials that are you favorites? What about e-spinners?
It’s often confusing to keep track of the amount of tension while spinning. Do you have great tips on notating and measuring your take-up?
Crosslacing is a fantastic technique for decreasing tension. When do you use it and how do you do it on different wheels. Do you have any other methods to reduce the tension?
Tensile strength is all about how much tension a fiber can be put under before it breaks. Which fibers are the strongest? Which breeds? When prepping fibers, the amount of tension used often results in unwanted neps. Do you have tips for reducing or eliminating them on hand cards, a blending board, or a drum carder?
Can the right amount of tension make or break the consistency while plying yarn? Why do we need tension to ply? What tips do you have to use tension to ply a consistent yarn? Is tension the key to reducing bumps in chain-ply yarns? What can you tell us about the different styles of kates and their tensioning systems and when you might use a particular type for both wheels and spindles? When do you apply more tension; when do you just let your bobbins spin?
What about textured and art yarns? Bouclé, spirals, coils, beehives, core spun, and other textured yarns rely on differential tension while plying. Tell us how you determine how much and how little tension make the best textured yarns. How do you control the mixed tension and still keep a yarn tidy? Is there a yarn that uses no tension?
How about color? Why do some colors seem to vibrate and explode when they are next to each other? Is there a way to make it happen or lessen the visual tension?
What about the release of tension? How do you plan, spin, and weave a structure that collapses on itself? What about knitting? Releasing the tension in high-twist singles can create sculptural effects. Can you teach us about it?
https://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/PLY_Blog.png383719Meagan Condonhttps://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/plylogo-condensed-pnk-300x164.pngMeagan Condon2025-02-06 09:00:002025-02-04 11:19:57Call for Blog Submissions: Tension
Every spinner’s most prized possession is most likely their wheel. Our wheels are what enable us spinners to do the thing we love. However, like all pieces of machinery, they have to be cared for and maintained. Now, this is not necessarily a “how to fix a broken wheel” tutorial because every wheel is different and every scenario is different. Today, I would just like to share with you a few essential tools every spinner should have handy to keep a wheel in working condition and fix solutions to tiny problems.
Why should you keep tools around?
First off, I am not telling you to start carrying around a woodshop’s worth of tools everywhere your wheel goes. That would be unreasonable. However, our wheels can be unpredictable, and a number of things could happen. A drive band could snap, a screw could come out, a spring could become uncoiled, or something simple like your wheel sounding super creaky and annoying. Having the basic tools around is helpful when your wheel decides to stop working out of the blue.
For example, at the Junior Spinning Competition MDSW 2024, a contestant’s drive band’s knot suddenly came loose and we needed a quick fix to make it tight again. We were able to fix it in time for the competition, but events like these remind me how important it is to keep spare parts around!
Of course, not everyone is going to be in a competition every time they spin. However, if you frequently demo, travel with your wheel, or are simply an avid spinner, keeping spare parts to your wheel can be a miracle when your wheel breaks or doesn’t work quite right.
What exactly should you have?
Each spinner will have different needs according to their wheel type. Some of these tools might even depend on individual preference. Not every one of these are extremely important. In fact, some of these only need to be used once in a blue moon. This might seem like a long list, but trust me, everything here has a purpose depending on the situation.
1. Oil
Oil is the one thing all spinners should keep handy (unless your wheel doesn’t require it). A good spinner should oil their wheel at least once every few times they spin if not every time. Oiling your wheel is quick and easy. You simply squirt a drop on the different moving (metal) parts and bearings (check your manufacturer for recommended oil placement). This will keep the bearings spinning smoothly against each other and will reduce friction that will most likely cause a really annoying squeak when you spin. If you spin frequently, oiling your wheel is key to having a smooth spin every time.
2. Extra drive bands
Drive bands can easily and quickly wear out/stretch out if you use your wheel often enough. Synthetic polyurethane can last for a long time, but you never know when the day might come that it will decide it’s served enough time. As for string or cotton bands, knots may easily come loose, and it can be hard to tie them a second time or sometimes they just have to be cut off. Frequent use and friction may also cause abrasion on the string and may cause weak spots, eventually leading to breakage. Your drive band is one of the most important components of your wheel, so ensure that you have a spare lying around your craft room.
A quick note on drive bands:I suggest that you keep both a polyurethane and a string drive band around, especially if you like collecting antique wheels or you own a vintage brand wheel. In some situations, the drive band may or may not affect the speed and rate at which the yarn winds onto the bobbin. A heavier drive band may cause your bobbin/flyer to wind more yarn than you can spin. You may find yourself fighting the wheel to keep the yarn in your hands.
This P.S. may not apply to you if you’ve had a wheel for ages with the same drive band. You already know what works and what doesn’t. However, if you’re trying a new-to-you wheel, and you find yourself struggling to spin at the rate your bobbin intakes yarn, try different drive bands to see if that helps you out.
3. Beeswax
For those of you with antique wheels, or who have string drive bands in general, beeswax is a must. Beeswax can make your drive band stronger and longer lasting. It also serves the purpose of adding a stronger grip to your drive band so it spins and moves the parts it needs to move with ease. You can easily keep a tiny chunk of beeswax with you and run it on the drive band at least once or twice every time you sit down to spin. The wax wears off, so constant application may be your best bet.
4. Screwdrivers
Depending on your wheel, screws might play a key role in certain parts of the wheel. For example, on my wheel, two screws help to keep plastic strips that connect the treadles to the wheel itself. These screws may come loose quickly or need to be removed to access and repair certain parts. For my electric spinners, most of the motors are held in place with screws attaching it to the spinner. Motors can, without a doubt, need replacing as they can be a delicate piece of machinery that can blow out or need to be switched out for a stronger, better one. Screwdrivers are most definitely one of, if not the most, valuable tool to keep on hand.
5. Extra bits and bobs
Everyone has different wheel types and styles. Wheels from different companies and wheelmakers may differ in shape, material, size, and parts. This means some parts for your wheel may be hard to come by because they are made specifically for your wheel. Therefore, if and when possible, buy these spare parts so you can replace them when something breaks.
You never know when a part breaks down or has just served its purpose for long enough. This is why I personally like to keep spare bearings, plastic bits, and screws around for my wheel when possible. Because I often take my wheel out and about for demos, I don’t want to risk not being able to spin any longer because the screw fell out of my right treadle!
Recommendations from other spinners
I asked 57 spinners what they think is the most useful thing they keep around and why. Not entirely surprising, spinning wheel oil and spare drive bands tied, with both items each making up 35 percent of the responses – 70 percent of the responses total.
For James P., oil is most important because “A wheel is a machine which has various bushings and bearings. If the bearings are sealed then that’s easy, no maintenance needed, but invariably most bobbins or flyers sit in either bronze, leather, or plastic bearings. To keep those spinning smoothly, quietly and so as they don’t alter my takeup, they really benefit from very regular oiling. Regular oiling (I oil every 30–45 mins) also cleanses the bearings as well as lubricating them to ensure particulates don’t prematurely wear them down. For me it’s the single most important thing I do to maintain my wheel as I spin.”
Here’s what Karen B. said about her drive bands: “My Majacraft Rose has a plastic drive band. I am not sure how easy it would be to make a temporary one out of cotton. That being said, if my drive band is broken, I can’t spin. To be prepared, I have a little case with all these items that I keep in my spinning travel box. It goes with me to all guild meetings, demos, or just a spinning day in the park.”
Screwdrivers also seemed to be a popular choice among the spinners, and Callie W. provided an excellent explanation as to why: “A screwdriver is the only tool that I have used on my wheel. Sometimes the fasteners holding the wheel together get slightly loose, or the screws on the treadles loosen.”
Conclusion
Wheel maintenance is key to good spinning. Maintenance will keep your wheel running smoothly and will leave you to worry about your yarn and not what your wheel’s issues are. Again, this is just a general list of tools, but everyone has their own unique preferences and wheels. Like so many other aspects of our craft, find what works for you. When you have a wheel and method that works for you, you’ll be on your path to success. Happy spinning!
Kai Solon is a young fiber artist who enjoys spending his free time spinning, weaving, and natural dyeing and has also recently dabbled in kilt making. Kai shares his fiber journey on Instagram and YouTube as @FiberByNature. Outside fiber, you’ll find Kai playing his heart out in his high school drumline.
I have become increasingly aware of the importance of buying local when I can: the food I eat, the clothes I wear, the wool I use for my spinning. Is it possible for us as spinners to buy local wool to fulfill our spinning needs and support local shepherds at the same time? When we purchase locally, we play a part, however small, in contributing to sustainable agriculture in our part of the world. Additional benefits include providing support to the rural economy and helping to ensure that local agriculture stays alive and thriving.
Benefits of supporting local farms
It is my experience as a shepherd and spinner that many flocks exist because of the love for the sheep not the profit hoped to be made. The harsh reality is that the price obtained for a fleece does not even come close to covering the expense of producing it. From the cost of feeding, veterinary care, and shearing to the labor involved in caring for that flock, it is often a losing proposition financially.
I feel strongly about directly supporting those who raise our woolly friends; we are truly fortunate to have such dedicated shepherds. I highly recommend seeking out your local shepherds and seeing what they have to offer. Start a conversation with your fellow spinners and find out who they know. Some sheep farms welcome inquiries from spinners interested in learning about their flock and the possibility of purchasing a fleece. You may be able to meet the sheep providing your wool! Check out the fleeces available at your local sheep and wool festival if you are fortunate to have one in your area.
A full fleece too much to consider? My spinning friends often enable each other by sharing a fleece. Not interested in working with a raw fleece? Many small wool mills will process a single fleece for you into lovely clean roving.
A local-to-me Shetland flock
Often small producers attempt to fill a niche by raising unique sheep breeds that may not be a viable choice to raise on a commercial scale. One such farm in my area is Lonach Farm, nestled in the foothills of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. This bucolic setting is complete with an 1870s farmhouse, barn, and a pasture. Maureen Fleming began her shepherding journey in 2005 with two Shetland wethers. Her breed choice was partially influenced by her Scottish ancestry but also by the versatility and adaptability of the breed. A knitter at that time, she now is a spinner and a proponent of handprocessing these unique Shetland fleeces.
Her flock now numbers twenty-five, and they exhibit the wide array of color variations and fleece types that the breed is known for. Her Shetlands have been selected from farms in New England and beyond. Early on, the decision was made to raise sheep with a focus on producing premier fleeces rather than breeding or showing. This choice has allowed her to produce a prime product for the fortunate spinners who are able to add one to their stash.
While growing their wool, the flock grazes at home for part of the year but spends the summer at “camp,” grazing at a nearby conservation farm. This is a mutually beneficial arrangement – the sheep have luscious grass to feed on and the farm’s pasture is maintained and the soil aerated and fertilized by the sheep. In the early fall they return home where they spend the winter eating locally harvested hay. The sheep are coated from then until shearing time, which helps keep the fleeces as free of VM as possible.
Late winter is shearing time! The farm hosts a highly anticipated shearing day party where you will find the shearer, woolly sheep, friends, food, and a warm fire (outside!). This lively group of like-minded people gather in the barn, anticipating the choosing of their fleece, hopefully from a favorite sheep! Old and new friends chat, observe, and occasionally help maneuver the sheep for the shearer. The shorn sheep are recoated for warmth and the cycle of growing the new fleece begins. At the end of the day, spinners leave with their well skirted treasures – some to process themselves, others to be sent to a local mill.
Wherever you may live, please consider directly supporting your local shepherds in any way you can to help ensure continued access to local fiber. Even in an urban area you might just be surprised at what resources might be found a short distance away. Spinners certainly love to share their experiences – don’t be afraid to ask where you might be able to make a connection with a local shepherd! Your search may be rewarded with the delightful experience of taking a fleece from the farm to the wheel.
Donna Kay is a knitting instructor and designer as well as an accomplished handspinner. Playing with wool is one of her favorite activities. You can find her on Ravelry as treeoflife and on Instagram as treeoflifeknitter.
https://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Screenshot-2024-07-01-230401.png663663Guest Bloggerhttps://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/plylogo-condensed-pnk-300x164.pngGuest Blogger2025-01-30 09:00:002025-01-21 09:12:16Farm to Wheel: Supporting local shepherds
Marking Time with Fabric and Thread: Calendars, Diaries, and Journals within Your Fiber Craft
by: Tommye McClure Scanlin Schiffer Craft $34.99, Hardback, 198 pages with 100 color images Published: October 28, 2024 Buy now at Bookshop.org Reviewed by: Karen Robinson
PLY had the pleasure of sharing an article by Sarah Swett in the Cloth (Autumn 2019) issue. I remember being fascinated while reading about her practices of creation. She writes the foreword in this book, and her words about marking time using crafting made me want to dive right into the book.
The author, Tommye McClure Scanlin, is a tapestry weaver and finds tapestry weaving to be a slow process, which allows for a lot of time to think about that process. She decided to try making a project a daily practice and thus was born her “tapestry diaries.” She shared her craft with others, in person and online, and those weavers and fiber artists began their own version of tapestry diaries.
This book is an exploration of various ways that Scanlin and other fiber artists have used their crafts to “mark time.” She asked many individuals to share their work and asked them the same three questions: what is their daily practice, why did they start and why do they continue it, and what medium they use for it. The practices of those fiber artists are included in this book, in their own words, along with many color photos.
The chapters cover various types of daily practices from data visualization (think temperature blankets) and diaries to adding codes within fiber arts projects. One of the last chapters gives some specific ideas for how you might start your own daily fiber practice and blank templates are included in the back of the book.
Because of the author’s background with tapestry weaving, many of the fiber artists and projects in this book involve that medium. I would have liked to see a bit more variety in the types of mediums being used in this book, though we do get some examples from quilting, embroidery and other stitching, mixed media, knitting and crochet, and even one using plastic packaging.
This is a gorgeous book, full of inspiring projects. Whether you want simply to read about and see the work of others or get an idea of the types of projects you could do for your own daily practice, even if you’re not a tapestry weaver, this book would be a fabulous addition to your fiber arts library.
https://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/91PhcLUHR4L.jpg25602048Karenhttps://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/plylogo-condensed-pnk-300x164.pngKaren2025-01-28 09:00:002025-01-21 09:12:47Book Review: Marking Time with Fabric and Thread by Tommye McClure Scanlin
Excerpt from “Spinning Sustainably” by Diana Hawthorne, PLY Issue 47, Winter 2024
Prioritize natural fibers
As a spinner you are likely already spinning wool, silk, cotton, or linen. Natural fiber is a more climate-friendly choice than synthetic fibers like acrylic and polyester, which are made from petroleum. Washing and working with fibers causes microscopic pieces to break off and end up in our waterways. With synthetic fibers, these microplastics create problems that natural microfibers do not. If you are spinning yarn with synthetic fibers (like Angelina), consider using that yarn for a finished object that requires minimal washing, such as a shawl as opposed to a sweater. This can help prevent some microplastics from entering our waterways.
Bio-nylon, which is made in a closed loop system (minimizing chemical waste and pollution), is becoming more available to spinners now. It is biodegradable like natural fibers. Numerous labmade naturally derived fibers are available to spinners as well. In general, fibers called lyocell, modal, and the brand Tencel are made in a closed loop system and are less harmful to the environment than fibers like rayon and viscose. All of these regenerated fibers are processed in a way that uses more energy to get to the same starting point as the natural fibers.
Not all natural fibers are created equal: flax and hemp production requires much less water and chemicals than cotton. Organic cotton has a significantly different impact than conventionally grown cotton for the same reason. The process of raising fiber animals contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Some practices can minimize or offset the emissions, and sheep often thrive on land that is otherwise not ideal for farming plants, so wool can still be a good choice!
Would you like to learn more about sustainable spinning?
https://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/e13519b9-4d73-45de-845d-c2e84c168939.png5621818Meagan Condonhttps://plymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/plylogo-condensed-pnk-300x164.pngMeagan Condon2025-01-23 09:00:002025-01-21 09:48:39Tip for Spinning Sustainably: an Excerpt from the Care Issue
We are excited to announce that PLY will be joining in on the Spin Together festivities this year!
What is Spin Together?
Spin Together is about the joy of spinning and the opportunity to share that joy with other spinners. It’s also a fun competition that will take place beginning at noon on February 22, 2025, and ending at noon on March 1, 2025 (noon in your time zone). It all takes place online in Facebook groups, and you can participate from anywhere in the world.
Does PLY have a team?
Ply has TWO teams! Each team maxes out at 25 people and we said, well, one team just isn’t enough! Our teams are called PLY Magazine Z-Twist and PLY Magazine S-Twist. While both of these teams will be full of cool people who read and contribute to the magazine, only one twist direction can reign supreme. Or, you know, each will serve its purpose in its own time or something like that.
How do I join one of the PLY teams?
Between January 28 and February 15, 2025, you will be able to go to this page and sign up to be on a team. The fee is $15 per person, paid directly to Spin Together when you sign up. They also encourage a donation to Habitat for Humanity. Remember, there is a limited number of spaces on each team, so signing up early gives you the best chance of getting on the team you want.
Where will all this happen?
We will host two groups on Facebook for participants to chat and see each others’ progress. We will also host a Zoom spin-in for both teams together at some point during the week! Spin Together also has a Facebook group for everyone participating in the event.
Are the prizes?
Of course there are prizes. On top of the generous contests and prizes offered by the Spin Together organizers, our PLY teams will also have our own challenges! A few lucky winners will win a year-long subscription to PLY magazine! (Either a new subscription or extending your current subscription).
How do you get yourself to practice other styles and structures of yarn? I learn to do something new and then just go back to my default yarn. I want to make new yarns! Eleanor, Ithaca, New York
Hi Eleanor,
It’s sometimes hard to get yourself to practice new things. For me, I find it comes down to comfort – I love spinning my default yarn! It’s also some combination of not being sure what to do, wanting my new yarn to be perfect on the first go, and being overwhelmed by all of the possibilities.
Here’s how I encourage myself to practice and experiment with new things.
Make it enjoyable
Use your favorite fiber and color and use your favorite wheel. These things will make the spinning more pleasurable, but you also know exactly how these things behave, so you don’t have the added layer of figuring out a new or finicky fiber or using a wheel that you may not be able to adjust on the fly.
I also pick something that I’m excited about to watch or listen to while I’m practicing. A TV show, podcast, or book that I only watch or listen to while practicing will get me to my wheel and my new yarn. A bonus to this is it also naturally sets a time limit; working on a new yarn regularly for smaller bites of time, happily spinning, is better for learning than sitting at the wheel for hours and hours exhausting yourself.
Make a plan
Have an idea of what you’d like to spin, and be sure to make it smallish. I find it’s better to make a plan that has several yarns that are building blocks to a bigger goal. Even better if it’s tied to something else you are already excited about or are expanding on.
For example, I want to get better at spinning a worsted yarn consistently at a variety of sizes. That’s a giant and kind of amorphous goal. It’s not a goal that will get me running to my wheel. But if I shift it into a series of yarns tied to other things I want to do or am already interested in, I get excited to spin.
Two yarns are at the top of my worsted spinning list this winter: 1) a fingering weight yarn (smaller than my default) out of a soft short-stapled fiber (a challenge to keep consistent) to make a Sophie Scarf (not a huge amount of yarn and a cozy project for winter), and 2) a low-twist worsted yarn to experiment with grist (a long-time obsession) – I’m looking for the lightest worsted yarn I can make.
If you tie your plan to a very specific yarn or pattern it will motivate you even more.
Make notes
I talk about this a lot (it helps me to remember to do it too): figure out a way to keep notes on your spinning and keep track of your goals and experiments. You will learn so much about your spinning!
Keep notes on fiber, prep, draft, wheel setup, ply, and finish for each of your yarns. Then make your yarn into a swatch in whatever craft you are working in, and evaluate your outcome. Make more notes on what worked and didn’t, suggest adjustments, and dive in for another sample. Keep repeating the process until you have the yarn you want.
Is it weird that when I’m learning and experimenting, I’m excited for my yarns to be not quite right? I learn so much more from a yarn that went off the rails when I go through the evaluate–adjust process.
I like to tell my students, if you want to be a better spinner you have to make a lot of crappy yarn.
Make it public
Tell your spinning friends about your plans and goals; they will cheer you on the whole way. Chances are someone in your spinning group will be really good at what you want to do and give you tips.
Watching other spinners spin the type of yarn you want to make helps too: friends, students in class, YouTube videos, and if you are a member of the PLY Spinners Guild, you can watch a variety of teachers do their thing.
Everyone spins a little differently; a room full of spinners making a 3-ply, worsted, fingering weight yarn will be a room full of different techniques – no one will have twist between their hands, but they will hold the fiber and draft in their own unique way, and seeing that always helps me tweak my own spinning style for the better.
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