Mixing Things up for a Sweater

words and photos by: Johanna Carter

I always admire those who are able to spin mountains of yarn for a big project, ready to knit a wonderful sweater or cardigan. It is a satisfying feeling when you finish all that work, especially if you started with washing and combing the wool or even raising your own sheep.

Mixing spinning and knitting

The typical way to work through a larger project is to spin all the singles first and ply them in a particular order so you get the yarn even throughout the whole project. I don’t have so many bobbins, but my bigger problem is that I am quite impatient and want to get on with knitting once I have an idea. And normally, my brain is full of ideas for fibre work and the limit is the time, as I am a musician and teacher. I can’t sit at the spinning wheel for a long time if I’m not on holiday, so during the school year I mostly knit, and during the holidays I can dye, spin, use my drum carder, and do lots of fibre work. The only time I was able to produce bigger quantities of yarn before I knitted them up was during the Tour de Fleece in the two years during the pandemic, when we did not go on holiday at the beginning of July.

A highly photogenic collection of naturally dyed fibres.

I like to finish knitting one big project like a sweater or cardigan before I start the next one, or at least until I can’t carry it in my bag easily anymore, so I have an excuse to begin the next one. Sometimes it is good to have a second project on the go – I call it mindless knitting, where I don’t have to look very much – which I can keep my hands busy during Zoom or other meetings, which helps me listen.

Mixing colours and fibres

Usually I dye my yarn with plants which I collect in the woods or get from garden flowers. I also use cochineal and indigo, which I buy, to get lots of different colours. I really love the greens and blues I get from dyeing with indigo. I have lots of dyed wool, and all those colours give me inspiration for further projects.

Beautiful greens and blues dyed by the author using indigo and other natural dyes.

Blending the wool on the drum carder I can get even more shades. I like to blend with fibres like silk, alpaca, or plant fibres, and I love sari silk, to get those little bits of colour in my yarn.

Fibres of different types and colours are blended on a drum carder for elegant results.

When I have an idea for the next sweater, I start carding, and then I can begin to spin. Once I have spun enough yarn – say, for one day – I cast on and start knitting, usually top down, so I don’t have to decide too much in advance about length and width.

An idea for the author’s next sweater in the gathering stages.

When I spin on my wheel, I have to sit at home, but while spinning I can read a book or talk to others during online meetings. I also like to spin on my spindles, and that works on a walk, or a museum visit. I take them on holiday as they don’t need much space, and when I spin for a lace shawl, I don’t even need much wool either. At home there are spindles all over the place; I can spin when I am waiting for the kettle to boil, when the computer is slow, when I am cooking. Like that I can make good use of a short time and the yarn still grows.

Knitting as soon as the yarn is spun helps the author complete sweater projects in a timely manner.

I can take my knitting almost everywhere, which is why I don’t want to wait to get started until I have spun all the yarn for a whole sweater. I knit at home, on the bus or train. The only thing I have to make sure of is to be one step ahead with the yarn.

I love to knit Fair Isle sweaters. My favourite method is to use only one bobbin, which I don’t even fill, because I need smaller quantities of lots of colours. Then I wind a ply ball and ply it on itself. For that I put my thumb through the ball, so I can tension the two singles with my fingers and they don’t get tangled, as long as my thumb (or a cardboard roll or a pencil) stays in the middle. I don’t have any leftovers from plying, and it is quick when I suddenly need more yarn.

Several charming sweaters dyed, spun, and knit by the author.

I have never had problems with the yarn not being consistent enough throughout a project. I just know what yarn I want and my fingers seem to remember what to do. I am sure it is good advice to have a little card tied to the spinning wheel with a bit of the singles you are aiming for, so you can check and make sure you are spinning a consistent yarn.

Mixing breeds

There are so many different breeds, but some of my favourites are Shetland, BFL, and Jämtland – a Swedish breed. After dyeing them, I often forget what I have used, so when I do a new project it often turns out that I have used different breeds and fibres just to get the right colour. For the Fair Isle knitting I want to juggle lots of colours, which is more important to me than making a sweater out of only one breed.

Recently I made a pullover for my husband using about 12 different breeds and colours, even mixing short and long draw. For me it was a breed experiment and a way to use up lots of smaller quantities of wool I had in my stash. For that sweater I used combed top without blending.

Mixing in knitting during the spinning process is a wonderful way for a spinner to avoid being overwhelmed during a sweater project.

My feeling is that some people don’t dare to start spinning for a bigger project because they get overwhelmed by the quantity they have to spin and then all the knitting there is to do, especially when you want to spin the yarn entirely on spindles. Mixing the spinning and knitting for the same project is more interesting; you get more variety and more freedom to choose what you want to do next as long as you don’t run out of yarn. It breaks the project down into smaller, less daunting parts. The only thing you might want to plan is to have enough fibre at the start, but even that is not necessary, there is always a sheep growing more wool.

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Spinzilla — Team PLY!

Spinzilla — there are a whopping 56 teams of awesomeness this year and we’re one of them! Each team is allowed 25 spinners and those spinners spin spin spin from Oct 6-11th. Then all the yardage is counted up and whichever team has more — wins!  Of course it does other things too, good things — promotes spinning, encourages learning, facilitates experimentation, grows community — but also there is winning involved! WINNING!

WINNING!

PLY wants to win.  I think PLY can win.  Don’t you?  We’ve got some amazing spinners all slated to sign up to be on the team and I can’t wait!  I’ve got big plans for these spinners, lots of motivation and challenges and prizes!  And if we win, I mean, when we win, something awesome!

Sign ups start at 10am tomorrow!  Do you want to be on the team?  Can you commit to spinning like the dickens?  We don’t ask for bloody fingertips but some crossed eyes would be okay.

http://www.tnna.org/event/SpinzillaTeamSpinnerRegistration

xo,

jacey

How we learn to make a magazine pt.1

Everybody that’s been with us from the beginning knows that we, collectively, knew nothing about running a magazine when this whole adventure started, right?  Nothing. The big ZERO (coincidentally, the same of stitches I’ve knit in the last month). I hadn’t the foggiest what made Amy Clark Moore and Linda Cortright so tired.  Now I do.  It’s a big job.  It’s not really that any one part is super duper scratch-you-head-difficult, but it’s complex – so many independent things all mashed together, happening at the same time, commanding your attention and running around in your brain like one of those tickers on time square.

I thought it might be interesting to blog about the process.  Let y’all see what goes on back here, behind the PLY curtain.  A kind of how-we-learn-to-run-a-magazine series, real-time.  It could be good.  At the very least it’ll give me a bird’s eye view of the process and maybe help me figure out ways to do it better.  Maybe you will have suggestions!

I should start with explaining the work schedule — Kitten and I have 3 kids together and we have a week on/week off schedule, both with the kids and with work.  Meaning that I get the kids for a week while he works and he gets them for a week while I work.  Kids for a week, work for a week.  Pretty great arrangement, I know. This week he has the kids so he’s doing Shakespeare camp, trips to the pool, and reading lessons and I’m working.

Now let’s set the PLY stage — right now we’re in the middle of a cycle, but we’re also at the beginning of a cycle, and  we’re at the very very beginning of another cycle.  There’s a lot of cycles.  A cycle of cycles, you might say…

The middle of the cycle part is the Autumn 2014 issue, due out in September (the Community issue).  The beginning of the cycle part is the Winter 2014 issue, due out in December (the Worsted issue).  And the very very beginning of the cycle is the Summer 2015 cycle, which might seem strange since I didn’t mention Spring 2015, it’s in there too but I don’t have to do much with it for a bit.

Let’s begin with the Autumn 2014 issue.  I’m not doing much on it except waiting! I said we’re in the middle of its cycle.  It’s actually a bit past middle.  It’s at Kitten’s right now.  Last week he started design, illustrations, and layout, he’ll continue it next week, as well. I’ll have more work to do on it after that but I don’t have much to do with his process.  I trust him completely and it always comes back to me looking amazing.

What I am working on this week is the issue after that – Winter 2014, the Worsted issue.  The authors that wrote for it had 2 separate due dates 2 weeks apart and the second batch of articles just came in. I have to say that it’s going to be a fantastic issue.  I’m deep in the initial edits and author-returns.  I read through, leave comments and questions for the authors, and then send it back to them. The article often goes back and forth several times before it moves to the next step.

When I get it back the last time, I read through it on it’s own, as a stand-alone piece, check if it needs any changes, anything rearranged, titled etc.  Once I read through all of them like that, I read through them all again as a whole, as a magazine, and make sure we don’t repeat the same info over and over again.  That’s one of the things that can happen with a themed magazine. If everyone is talking about silk, lots of articles will have similar introductions or the same background information (silk production, micron count etc.).  I try to minimize that and if I don’t catch it all, Levi or Kitten does later on.

So that’s what I’m doing this week with the Winter 2014 issue, reading through some articles for the 1st time and some articles after they’ve come back from the author for the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd time.

I told you we were at the very very beginning of the Summer 2015 cycle, right?  That’s the other thing I’m doing.  The mood board went out a few weeks ago and article/project proposals come in each day (you still have time to submit, by the way).  In my e-mail client each issue has a folder and each issue’s folder has a “yes” “no” and “maybe” folder.  As the proposals come in I put them in these folders.  The no and maybe proposals eventually go into a “prospective ideas” folder but for now they stay in case I can use them afterall.  Yes that’s a photo of my actual e-mail client.  It’s crazy in there.  Over 100 folders!  Am I the only one that does this? Every so often I go in and try to make it more manageable, rearrange and rename but it always grows and grows.

Other random tasks this week:

  • Talk to web-guy about subscription management software.
  • Pack and mail this week’s back issues (usually about 5 hours).
  • Editorial meeting tomorrow where we’ll talk about website, current issue, and future themes.
  • Write my article for the worsted issue.
  • Run credit cards for all the advertisers and wholesalers that have one on file.
  • Listen to 54 new voicemails regarding subscriptions.
  • Plan Winter photo-shoot (locations and date).
  • Answer last week’s e-mails.
  • Put up a couple of new questions on the FAQ.
  • Contact Zinio again about PLY (argh, they won’t respond!)
  • Send check to printer for reprint.
  • Send in quarterly payroll taxes.
  • get people to post their tipjar tips for the Winter issue.
  • sell our new webads (you know, the ones you see over there to the right, they’re helping us offset the fact that we don’t have many ads in the magazine).

Plus I’ve got to garden.  The vine borers may have taken the squash (any advice on this is welcome too) but the tomatoes are in full harvest mode!

ps.  please don’t think this post is in any way complain-y or woe-is-me.  I love love love my job.

xo,

jacey

 

 

 

 

 

 

PLY’s wishlist for photoshoots

You may have noticed that we try to do most of the photography in  house.  That’s not just because Bernadette has mad photo skills, but also because I really think it gives an issue a cohesive, beautiful feel.  Of course, there are always things we can’t shoot — photos about a location, about a person, about a festival, or about a technique we just don’t know at all.  Generally though, we try and shoot as much as we can.

A problem we run into is that sometimes we don’t have the equipment needed to bring to life a particular article.  For instance, see that little wpi tool in the photo?, the cute little sheepie one from The Clay Sheep?  I had to use that in 2 back to back issues because I didn’t have another WPI tool!  Not that I minded, it’s super adorable, but still, you see what I mean.

We’re pretty solidly stocked on wheels, PLY now has a large assortment of wheels so if an author mentions a wheel, we’re likely to be able to use it in the photoshoot.  If we don’t have the model, we at least have the make, you know?  Things we’re not so stocked on is all the other stuff, some big, some small.  So, here’s just some of the things we wish we had on hand for photoshoots, our wishlist, if you will:

  • wool combs: 4-pitch and 2-pitch; english, viking, dutch
  • mini wool combs
  • flickers
  • hand cards
  • small hackle
  • various types of spindles (we really need support, russian, turkish, navajo, tahkli, and bottom whorls)
  • various measuring tools –tpi, wpi ect
  • cute spinning things that enhance photos

Now it’s true that PLY could buy some of these things, but we run a pretty tight ship over here.  In order to keep our ad to content ratio low low low, we don’t really have a budget for tools yet.  Right now we’re saving for subscription management software (currently we do it all by hand).  But it’s not only that our ship is tight, it’s also that we really love supporting small indie companies, companies that support spinners, companies that support us.  We like being able to list them on the Independent Spinner page when we use one of their products in our photos. We like that we get to spread the word.

So if you’d like to see your product on the pages of PLY, let’s see what we can do!  Check out this page to learn more about it!

xo,

jacey