Mixing Things up for a Sweater

Words and photos by Jenn Lander

For those of us who are spinners, fiber is joy. And when we create something beyond our expectations, it’s even better. During the summer of 2023 I did just that with the help of others who knew exactly how to make my work come to life. 

As a visual artist I often seek out opportunities to travel and attend artist residencies. These are vibrant places where artists tend to gather as a group and make art alongside one another. Artist residencies usually conjure inspiration, and creatives come from a variety of backgrounds to rest and create. Throughout the month of June 2023, I attended one of these residencies facilitated by the Ora Lerman foundation in Laceyville, Pennsylvania. 

At the beginning of June, I packed my small Nissan Versa full of materials and tools that I wished to use over the course of the coming month. The most important item in my car was the giant bag of Shetland wool which originated from my parents’ family farm. On this farm, my father cares for between eighty to one hundred angus cattle each year. My contribution to this operation is my six Shetland sheep: Mary Brown, Lily, Danny, Francis, Ramses, and Sirius. These sweet animals, because they are a smaller breed, remind me of dogs. They love being greeted with pets and treats and amazingly enough also wag their little tails when they are happy. Each time I use their wool I am reminded of my fiber pets in Zanesville and how they give me a great deal of joy. 

With my precious wool and sheepy thoughts, I arrived in Laceyville, where I worked alongside six other creatives; these people were writers, painters, and actors who were pursuing their own passions. At this residency we shared the original house of Ora Lerman, a successful artist in her own right. When she passed away, she left her estate in the form of a trust where others can take full advantage of the resources she collected throughout her life. Her home became a shared space for creatives to work and react to one another’s process. There we found inspiration from the energy and work ethic each of us brought to the space. Residents even had communal meals where we could speak openly about our ideas. 

Throughout my stay I had unlimited time to work, rest, and connect with others. My most memorable moments were spent in the studio discussing a fellow artist’s landscape paintings and the beautiful weather we were having. Or meeting with a former fiber artist who found a love for metal sculpture years ago. I met a fellow spinner who was the estate’s longtime volunteer gardener. We enjoyed talking all things spinning and fiber. Excitingly enough, we had the opportunity to do a fiber trade before I left. 

These budding friendships provided a nice contract to the solitude I felt while working. As most spinners know, our process typically allows time for a great deal of silent reflection. While I listened to a book at times, other moments were filled with quiet thoughts and peaceful admiration for the nature which surrounded me. The studio I spent much of my time inhabiting had large windows which overlooked a beautiful garden. When I would sit on the second story porch, I was also graced by a small hummingbird who came to see me at random moments throughout my day. During times of peace, my sheep flooded my thoughts. I thought about where this fiber came from and the historical significance of what I was doing. My hope and belief are that handspinning will never die because of all of us who are keeping it alive within our own communities. In doing so, we are educating others and sharing our passion for something that is ancient and important. 

So, with my beautiful bag of wool, I took full advantage of my residency experience by spinning on my Electric EEL Wheel 6.0. Throughout that time, I spun five skeins of DK weight yarn that I had intended to make art with in the future. My fiber, being very important to me, begged to be twisted and made into something special. I had looked forward to dyeing the yarn using a natural dye process when I arrived back home. However, while researching natural dyes, I stumbled upon an organization which was offering classes close to Lancaster, Pennsylvania. A “dye day” just happened to be not only on the way home but the day following my residency. 

I jumped at the opportunity to sign up. On the last day of my residency, I hopped in my car and drove off toward Lancaster. There I found lovely quilt and yarn shops within miles of where I was to take my class. Lancaster is known for its deeply rooted Amish community. It has largely become a tourist destination with hidden gems. 

At Green Matter Dye Co I had the pleasure of meeting Winona, the instructor of the class. She was kind, and I quickly learned that she is also very knowledgeable in the field of fashion and fiber. Like myself, she has a degree in Fashion Design, but uniquely she focuses on sustainability. Winona’s company originated as a dye house that provided services for garment companies to send products to be dyed in a sustainable manner. 

I am thankful that she also focuses on helping artists and fashion enthusiasts learn the process of natural dying. Green Matter Dye Co opens their doors to novice and new dyers who wish to learn and explore the process. Not only do they have an indigo vat always at the ready, but Winona’s staff makes dye baths out of other plants such as madder root, avocado pits, and marigolds. 

The beginning of the course focused on the technical aspects of natural dye, like the pH of the water and how to test this water for batches of dye. The learning curve involved in this type of process is steep; however, we learned through hands-on experimentation in the coming hours. Over the course of the morning our small group listened to and discussed this topic, trying to understand the process we were about to explore. Even better, each student came from a different background, thus enhancing our already rich discussion. 

We finally ended our conversation and moved forward with the hands-on portion of the day. Students had prepared a variety of items they wished to dye. These ranged from upcycled garments purchased in thrift stores to the handspun yarn I had brought along. 

Over the coming hours we took our chosen materials and dipped them in the dye. Though I must say, the best part of my day was bonding with a group of women who had struggled through similar life experiences. We were all ages and from all walks of life. Throughout the afternoon, our small group shared about our lives, our joys and challenges: divorces, dating, and raising children, all the while creating beautiful things in our free time. 

The hours ahead involved immersing our fiber into the dye baths that Winona had prepared for us. This was the first time I had ever dipped anything in an indigo vat. The experience was magical. Indigo has a deep and long history around the world but is best known in the western world as the color used to dye our blue jeans and denim. 

The most eco-friendly method of indigo dyeing involves a fermentation process using the leaves of the indigo plant. During this process, the plant matter is broken down, creating bacteria and lactic acid. The pH level must be monitored. 

I was instructed to dip the fiber into an indigo dye vat. Once submerged, I removed my skein, exposing it to oxygen. The yarn was hung and allowed to turn blue over time. Initially it is an acidic green color; however, after a few minutes it turns a beautiful blue hue. Afterward, my yarn was rinsed using cold water, which removed any dye matter that may have lingered. To achieve a deep blue, my handspun yarn was dipped twice. Finally, the yarn was washed gently in Dawn soap to rinse it and take away the dye that had not been bonded. In the end, I took home some beautiful blue yarn that could be used for a future project. 

Over the course of a month, I traveled from my home of Columbus, Ohio to Pennsylvania. I left with a bag of Shetland wool and returned with beautiful yarn. I also departed with great memories and a new knowledge of how to dye my yarn. This time away with others inspired me to continue making yarn and to use natural materials to add color to my work. My lesson over the past couple of years is to find your people and your passion. Surround yourself with those who love the same things you do, and you will find expertise and love. What a grand combination and a beautiful gift! 

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