Mixing Things up for a Sweater
words and photos by: Johanna Carter
I always admire those who are able to spin mountains of yarn for a big project, ready to knit a wonderful sweater or cardigan. It is a satisfying feeling when you finish all that work, especially if you started with washing and combing the wool or even raising your own sheep.
Mixing spinning and knitting
The typical way to work through a larger project is to spin all the singles first and ply them in a particular order so you get the yarn even throughout the whole project. I don’t have so many bobbins, but my bigger problem is that I am quite impatient and want to get on with knitting once I have an idea. And normally, my brain is full of ideas for fibre work and the limit is the time, as I am a musician and teacher. I can’t sit at the spinning wheel for a long time if I’m not on holiday, so during the school year I mostly knit, and during the holidays I can dye, spin, use my drum carder, and do lots of fibre work. The only time I was able to produce bigger quantities of yarn before I knitted them up was during the Tour de Fleece in the two years during the pandemic, when we did not go on holiday at the beginning of July.
A highly photogenic collection of naturally dyed fibres.
I like to finish knitting one big project like a sweater or cardigan before I start the next one, or at least until I can’t carry it in my bag easily anymore, so I have an excuse to begin the next one. Sometimes it is good to have a second project on the go – I call it mindless knitting, where I don’t have to look very much – which I can keep my hands busy during Zoom or other meetings, which helps me listen.
Mixing colours and fibres
Usually I dye my yarn with plants which I collect in the woods or get from garden flowers. I also use cochineal and indigo, which I buy, to get lots of different colours. I really love the greens and blues I get from dyeing with indigo. I have lots of dyed wool, and all those colours give me inspiration for further projects.
Beautiful greens and blues dyed by the author using indigo and other natural dyes.
Blending the wool on the drum carder I can get even more shades. I like to blend with fibres like silk, alpaca, or plant fibres, and I love sari silk, to get those little bits of colour in my yarn.
Fibres of different types and colours are blended on a drum carder for elegant results.
When I have an idea for the next sweater, I start carding, and then I can begin to spin. Once I have spun enough yarn – say, for one day – I cast on and start knitting, usually top down, so I don’t have to decide too much in advance about length and width.
An idea for the author’s next sweater in the gathering stages.
When I spin on my wheel, I have to sit at home, but while spinning I can read a book or talk to others during online meetings. I also like to spin on my spindles, and that works on a walk, or a museum visit. I take them on holiday as they don’t need much space, and when I spin for a lace shawl, I don’t even need much wool either. At home there are spindles all over the place; I can spin when I am waiting for the kettle to boil, when the computer is slow, when I am cooking. Like that I can make good use of a short time and the yarn still grows.
Knitting as soon as the yarn is spun helps the author complete sweater projects in a timely manner.
I can take my knitting almost everywhere, which is why I don’t want to wait to get started until I have spun all the yarn for a whole sweater. I knit at home, on the bus or train. The only thing I have to make sure of is to be one step ahead with the yarn.
I love to knit Fair Isle sweaters. My favourite method is to use only one bobbin, which I don’t even fill, because I need smaller quantities of lots of colours. Then I wind a ply ball and ply it on itself. For that I put my thumb through the ball, so I can tension the two singles with my fingers and they don’t get tangled, as long as my thumb (or a cardboard roll or a pencil) stays in the middle. I don’t have any leftovers from plying, and it is quick when I suddenly need more yarn.
Several charming sweaters dyed, spun, and knit by the author.
I have never had problems with the yarn not being consistent enough throughout a project. I just know what yarn I want and my fingers seem to remember what to do. I am sure it is good advice to have a little card tied to the spinning wheel with a bit of the singles you are aiming for, so you can check and make sure you are spinning a consistent yarn.
Mixing breeds
There are so many different breeds, but some of my favourites are Shetland, BFL, and Jämtland – a Swedish breed. After dyeing them, I often forget what I have used, so when I do a new project it often turns out that I have used different breeds and fibres just to get the right colour. For the Fair Isle knitting I want to juggle lots of colours, which is more important to me than making a sweater out of only one breed.
Recently I made a pullover for my husband using about 12 different breeds and colours, even mixing short and long draw. For me it was a breed experiment and a way to use up lots of smaller quantities of wool I had in my stash. For that sweater I used combed top without blending.
Mixing in knitting during the spinning process is a wonderful way for a spinner to avoid being overwhelmed during a sweater project.
My feeling is that some people don’t dare to start spinning for a bigger project because they get overwhelmed by the quantity they have to spin and then all the knitting there is to do, especially when you want to spin the yarn entirely on spindles. Mixing the spinning and knitting for the same project is more interesting; you get more variety and more freedom to choose what you want to do next as long as you don’t run out of yarn. It breaks the project down into smaller, less daunting parts. The only thing you might want to plan is to have enough fibre at the start, but even that is not necessary, there is always a sheep growing more wool.
Clemes & Clemes on the Impact on Our Tool Manufacturers
We reached out to Clemes & Clemes to see how the tariffs are impacting business for a tool manufacturer.
For over half a century, we have worked hard to source locally and domestically when possible. Forging long-lasting relationships with local suppliers tends to keep costs down and quality up – being able to walk right into a supplier’s office when there is an issue is always a plus.
As an example, we recently brought the manufacture of the electrical enclosures for our drum carders in house. We used to buy stock electrical cans, but during Covid, the manufacturer moved production from Georgia to Mexico. The quality of the cans became so erratic that they were no longer usable to us, so we designed and now have electrical enclosures laser cut and bent to our exact specifications just ten minutes from our shop. After we assemble them, they are powder coated by another company just a couple miles down the road. Not only did we take back control of the quality, we also lowered our overall costs as the enclosures now come ready to use without laborious modifications.
There are, of course, many parts that are not reshore-able (reshoring being the opposite of offshoring). Nuts, bolts, screws – most hardware – have not been made in the U.S. for quite some time now, with China being the main supplier. Likewise, carding cloth for the textile industry is no longer made here. Thankfully, we have good sources in Europe that we have worked with for decades, who manufacture specifically for us and to our specifications.
So, from a supply side, I don’t see a huge impact on our business from tariffs at the moment. If the little bit of hardware that we use of Chinese origin doubled in price, it would likely have a minimal effect on our pricing overall, and our other imports come from regions which – as of yet – are not under heavy tariffs.
The bigger impact we are concerned about is actually consumer confidence. The on, off, on again nature of the tariff negotiation process can have a paralyzing effect on purchases – especially for big-ticket items. We see this every four years with the presidential election cycle – in March or April of an election year, things start to slow down, with sales down to a trickle by the first week in November. But a week later – no matter who wins – consumers once again have certainty and again feel confident to make purchasing decisions. Richard Nixon was president when my father started our family’s business; we have seen this cycle time and again.
The concern with this tariff business is that there is no real end in sight; no date that we can point to and expect consumer confidence to flip from low to high. That really puts the onus on us as a company to instill confidence in customers making a purchase from us. Being industry leaders in quality for more than half a century is certainly helpful in that aspect. And while we have offered payment plans on big-ticket items for almost a decade, we recently started offering short-term payment plans on smaller items. For instance, $140 for a Lock Pop may seem like a stretch at the moment for someone, but $35 per month over four months will give them a little more in their monthly budget while still affording a tool that they will own for the rest of their life.
So, while tariffs at the moment are making life interesting, we are taking them in stride as the next challenge for our business to overcome. We’ve survived everything from the stagflation of the 1970s to multiple “once in a lifetime” recessions in the last 20 years. For us – at the moment – the way through is by maintaining world-class quality, working on keeping prices down whenever we can, and making our products as accessible as possible.
Call for Blog Submissions: Plants
While the Plants issue of PLY is already in the works (and it looks like another great one!) we are looking for quality related posts for the blog! Did you have an idea you didn’t submit? Or did you miss the submission window?
The blog process is much simpler than the magazine process (which involves contracts and samples sent in, photographs, tech editing, etc.) Instead, you’ll need to send your own photos, and your post will go through a copy edit but no other part of the magazine article process. If your blog submission is accepted and published, we’ll send you a $50 honorarium via PayPal.
Please submit your blog post proposal by July 11, 2025. If your post proposal is accepted, we’ll need your words and photos by September 1, 2025. We’ll be posting the Plant posts on the blog in September, October, or November 2025.
Find the mood board below!
PLY Autumn 2025 – Plants (Blog posts)
If it grows in the earth and you can spin it, we want it!
Let’s look at growing and preparation, blending and dyeing, drafting and plying, finishing and projects! We would love for you to contribute your knowledge, experiments, and projects.
Which plant fibers are easiest to spin for someone new to the world of cellulose? How do they compare and relate to fibers spinners are more familiar with? Why would you choose plants over other fibers? Can you compare and contrast plant fibers, identifying what they are wonderful for and the ways they can be spun? Are some plant fibers better than other plant fibers for certain things?
What do you know about plant fibers that have to go through a manufacturing process, like bamboo? How does it affect the environment, the spin, the finished yarn?
What preparations work the best for plant fibers? What should a spinner look for in a commercial preparation? Which dyes and methods work the best for you? Can you use natural dyes with plant fibers? What happens when you dye a cellulose/wool blend? Talk to us about the tools for plants: which are the same as wool, which are for plants only? Can you use blending boards? Handcards? Combs? What is the benefit of blending these fibers with protein fibers? What is the best percentage of plant and wool, and what are the best plants and breeds to use together?
Tell us about using spindles, charkhas, walking wheels, e-spinners, and treadle wheels. Are there ones that work and don’t work with these fibers? Do cellulose fibers have to be worsted drafted? Can you spin them woolen? What happens if you do? How much twist is enough, and how much is too much? What tips do you have for plying plant fibers, the number of plies, the twist angle? How do you get a smooth chain ply with plants? What about different ply structures? Can you use these fibers in textured yarns?
Tell us about the methods you use to finish plant fibers. How do you make sure the twist is set? Do you belong to a fibershed that includes cotton or flax, and can you tell us how you are working toward their sustainable future? Do you make and use cordage from plants in your garden or on your travels? Can you teach us how and what you make with it?
PLY Guild: Second Season Drop – Episode 2
Ding! Ding! Ding!
The second episode of the second (worsted) season of the PLY Guild has dropped and is ready for your viewing pleasure!
- Four brand-spanking-new spinning segments
- Four great teachers: Deb Robson, Maggie Casey, Jillian Moreno, and Jacey!
- More than 2 hours of spinning content!
It’s a great episode filled with lots of information about choosing fibers for worsted yarns.
We’ll see you again with a new episode in six weeks (but in the meantime, come see us in a spin-in)! If you haven’t already gotten your membership, this is an episode you won’t want to miss!
PLY Spinners Guild is a space for spinners. We are an inclusive and diverse community that embraces all spinners committed to learning, growing, questioning, answering, and supporting their fellow guild members. We strongly believe that the more diverse our community is, the stronger our community is. Our core beliefs of kindness, diversity, and inclusivity inform everything we do. PSG supports people of every ability, ethnicity, race, religion, sex, and gender. We hold that every single community member is important. We believe that black and brown lives matter. We see and support our LGBTQ+ community. We reserve the right to remove anyone that meaningfully and purposefully disrupts the community or makes other members feel unsafe.
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