Mixing Things up for a Sweater

words and photos by: Johanna Carter

I always admire those who are able to spin mountains of yarn for a big project, ready to knit a wonderful sweater or cardigan. It is a satisfying feeling when you finish all that work, especially if you started with washing and combing the wool or even raising your own sheep.

Mixing spinning and knitting

The typical way to work through a larger project is to spin all the singles first and ply them in a particular order so you get the yarn even throughout the whole project. I don’t have so many bobbins, but my bigger problem is that I am quite impatient and want to get on with knitting once I have an idea. And normally, my brain is full of ideas for fibre work and the limit is the time, as I am a musician and teacher. I can’t sit at the spinning wheel for a long time if I’m not on holiday, so during the school year I mostly knit, and during the holidays I can dye, spin, use my drum carder, and do lots of fibre work. The only time I was able to produce bigger quantities of yarn before I knitted them up was during the Tour de Fleece in the two years during the pandemic, when we did not go on holiday at the beginning of July.

A highly photogenic collection of naturally dyed fibres.

I like to finish knitting one big project like a sweater or cardigan before I start the next one, or at least until I can’t carry it in my bag easily anymore, so I have an excuse to begin the next one. Sometimes it is good to have a second project on the go – I call it mindless knitting, where I don’t have to look very much – which I can keep my hands busy during Zoom or other meetings, which helps me listen.

Mixing colours and fibres

Usually I dye my yarn with plants which I collect in the woods or get from garden flowers. I also use cochineal and indigo, which I buy, to get lots of different colours. I really love the greens and blues I get from dyeing with indigo. I have lots of dyed wool, and all those colours give me inspiration for further projects.

Beautiful greens and blues dyed by the author using indigo and other natural dyes.

Blending the wool on the drum carder I can get even more shades. I like to blend with fibres like silk, alpaca, or plant fibres, and I love sari silk, to get those little bits of colour in my yarn.

Fibres of different types and colours are blended on a drum carder for elegant results.

When I have an idea for the next sweater, I start carding, and then I can begin to spin. Once I have spun enough yarn – say, for one day – I cast on and start knitting, usually top down, so I don’t have to decide too much in advance about length and width.

An idea for the author’s next sweater in the gathering stages.

When I spin on my wheel, I have to sit at home, but while spinning I can read a book or talk to others during online meetings. I also like to spin on my spindles, and that works on a walk, or a museum visit. I take them on holiday as they don’t need much space, and when I spin for a lace shawl, I don’t even need much wool either. At home there are spindles all over the place; I can spin when I am waiting for the kettle to boil, when the computer is slow, when I am cooking. Like that I can make good use of a short time and the yarn still grows.

Knitting as soon as the yarn is spun helps the author complete sweater projects in a timely manner.

I can take my knitting almost everywhere, which is why I don’t want to wait to get started until I have spun all the yarn for a whole sweater. I knit at home, on the bus or train. The only thing I have to make sure of is to be one step ahead with the yarn.

I love to knit Fair Isle sweaters. My favourite method is to use only one bobbin, which I don’t even fill, because I need smaller quantities of lots of colours. Then I wind a ply ball and ply it on itself. For that I put my thumb through the ball, so I can tension the two singles with my fingers and they don’t get tangled, as long as my thumb (or a cardboard roll or a pencil) stays in the middle. I don’t have any leftovers from plying, and it is quick when I suddenly need more yarn.

Several charming sweaters dyed, spun, and knit by the author.

I have never had problems with the yarn not being consistent enough throughout a project. I just know what yarn I want and my fingers seem to remember what to do. I am sure it is good advice to have a little card tied to the spinning wheel with a bit of the singles you are aiming for, so you can check and make sure you are spinning a consistent yarn.

Mixing breeds

There are so many different breeds, but some of my favourites are Shetland, BFL, and Jämtland – a Swedish breed. After dyeing them, I often forget what I have used, so when I do a new project it often turns out that I have used different breeds and fibres just to get the right colour. For the Fair Isle knitting I want to juggle lots of colours, which is more important to me than making a sweater out of only one breed.

Recently I made a pullover for my husband using about 12 different breeds and colours, even mixing short and long draw. For me it was a breed experiment and a way to use up lots of smaller quantities of wool I had in my stash. For that sweater I used combed top without blending.

Mixing in knitting during the spinning process is a wonderful way for a spinner to avoid being overwhelmed during a sweater project.

My feeling is that some people don’t dare to start spinning for a bigger project because they get overwhelmed by the quantity they have to spin and then all the knitting there is to do, especially when you want to spin the yarn entirely on spindles. Mixing the spinning and knitting for the same project is more interesting; you get more variety and more freedom to choose what you want to do next as long as you don’t run out of yarn. It breaks the project down into smaller, less daunting parts. The only thing you might want to plan is to have enough fibre at the start, but even that is not necessary, there is always a sheep growing more wool.

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Wanna try spinning cotton? (We’re giving it away!)

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Our Beautiful Cotton issue has been in subscribers’ hands and store shelves for a few months now, and we’d love to know what you think! Are you a seasoned spinner of the fiber of our lives, or a novice? Did this issue teach you something you didn’t know before, or encourage you to try something new? Did you find it mind-numblingly gorgeous? Have you worked through any of the projects, or spun a new yarn inspired by the information in the articles?

Ruane2 We love hearing what the spinners of the world think about each issue! It also helps us entice new readers to pick up a copy of PLY. So we’d really love it if you would click here and leave a review for the Cotton issue of PLY! (Just scroll down to the product description and click on the “Reviews” tab to enter your thoughts.) As a thank you, we’re going to give away some fabulous cotton fiber! This cotton was actually sent to us by one of our readers, who is sharing her personal cotton harvest with a lucky winner (THANK YOU!). Isn’t it fabulous? It’s super clean, and so much – there is about 1 lb of it!

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We’ll pick a winner at random from the cotton issue reviews on this page on June 15, and contact you to send out your cotton! Remember, don’t leave your review of the issue here, leave it on the issue page, here! Thanks so much, as always, for your support.

 

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Would you like to teach at PLY Away 2017?

PLY Away 2016 was a resounding success and we’re already hard at work planning 2017 and 2018!

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PLY Away: The Student Perspective

Today we are so lucky to be visited by Devin Helmen, who won the scholarship to attend PLY Away 2016! If you weren’t able to attend but you wondered what all the fuss was about, keep reading as Devin shares his experiences from PLY Away!


 

I literally could not believe it for a few moments when I got the notification that I had been awarded the scholarship to the inaugural PLY Away.  I was full of anticipation and eagerness and had no idea what to expect. I am glad I came into the actual experience without solid expectations, because nothing could have prepared me for the amazing time I had. Imagine almost three hundred people all sharing the same passion, all excited, and all ready to enjoy themselves. Sounds awesome, right? The reality was a million times better.

From the moment I came up to the registration tables, everyone was uniformly kind, helpful, and excited! I received my packet of information with helpful name tag, schedule, banquet pass, and booklet along with an amazingly generous swag bag filled with samples from vendors. Spinners had already taken over the lobby and were spinning on wheels and spindles, knitting, chatting, and sipping beverages. Everyone had grins on their faces, and I am sure they matched mine.

I have learned to spin in mostly isolation, and have not been exposed to the wonderful atmosphere that can come about with the concentration of fiber folk in one area. I saw many new techniques, new tools, new patterns, and everyone was happy to talk about them, to show the pattern, to teach the new technique. This was the biggest surprise, and the most exciting thing, for me: the learning continues outside of classes.

The classes I took were wonderful, and I was lucky to have the chance to learn from Deb Robson, Abby Franquemont, and Stephanie Gaustad. I had so much fun discovering the intricacies of Shetlands and Leicesters, how to MacGuyver a sparkly toy baton into a spindle with a paperclip and some ingenuity, and exploring the uses and history of both distaves and flax. As mind-blowing as these classes were, it was equally mind-blowing to see teachers in their element, and to have the example of how to teach.

The spin-in was a tremendous gathering, a large ballroom filled with people spinning and chatting and exchanging knowledge and information. I saw many exchanges of information, many offers to try new tools and fibers. Teaching and transmitting information seems to be innate in a gathering like this. Living immersed in fiber and textiles for days at a time made for a far different experience than taking a class and then going home. The buzz, the conversations, the practicing of new techniques continued well after classes.

It is my goal to become a spinning and textile teacher. It is such an important part of our civilization and such a fundamental skill. I watched closely how teachers responded to questions, demonstrated, and taught and I am glad to have such people to use as models for when I teach. PLY Away brought together a group of passionate and talented people whose excitement and knowledge (and thirst for more knowledge) made it a life-changing experience for me. I came away from it with a complete dedication to doing what I can to continue and expand this community, to preserving and passing down the fiber and textile knowledge which underpins civilization, and to doing what I can to pay back and pay forward the generosity of material, knowledge, and spirit I encountered. I am happy to say that I will be able to make a start this fall, when I will be teaching my first beginning spinning classes.

I want to thank Jacey and Levi, all the wonderful and dedicated people at PLY, the teachers and participants at PLY Away, and all the generous people who donated to the scholarship which made it possible for me to attend.

Devin H headshot

 

Cubicle Monkey by day, Fiber Fanatic by night, Devin Helmen has been feeding his fiber obsession since he taught himself to spin at age 8.  He spins, knits, and is learning to weave in beautiful Minnesota. He has a passion for spindles and everyday textiles and blogs, intermittently, at www.afewgreenfigs.blogspot.com.